The European cookbook for American homes (from Italy, Spain, Portugal and France)

a dinner-party dish, but one to be enjoyed among intimates. The host, who in France is always an expert carver, runs a sharp knife round the crust at the bottom. The top crust is taken off and sent to the side table; for the great delicacy, to be carefully portioned, is the crust beneath the duck into which the foie gras has soaked. The upper crust, it is remarked in a French cook book, may be served to the children, or to the poor relation who is not supposed to know the difference. DUCKLING WITH SOUR ORANGES (Caneton a la Bigarde) i duckling 3 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper 1 orange, rind and juice 3 cooked carrots, sliced 1 small glass currant jelly 2 onions, sliced Toasted bread 1 orange, sectioned Roast duckling 20 minutes in hot oven. Season, reduce heat to moderate and allow 20 minutes more for each pound. Fry the carrots and onions in a little of the butter until the onions are brown, and add. Cut the orange rind into thin strips and cook in a little hot water until they are soft, and add. Add orange juice and jelly to the duck gravy in the roasting pan. Heat until jelly is melted, mixing well. Place the duck on the toast, decorate the breast with fresh orange sections. Serve gravy in a boat. The bigarde is the sour orange of Seville, exported to a number of neighboring countries. It is excellent for cooking. A large portion of the Spanish crop goes to England, where it is made up into the tangy marmalade which appears on every English breakfast table and is shipped to America in small stone jars, under well known brands. Normandy GOQSE ^ SMJCE (Oie en Daube) i young fat goose % teaspoon ground mace Salt and pepper 2 teaspoons applejack 2 pounds lean pork, ground 1 piece salt pork rind 3 slices bacon, minced 2 cups stock 2 eggs 1 onion, chopped 4 apples 1 leek, sliced 2V2 cups cider 1 carrot, sliced l/$ teaspoon ground cloves Apple marmalade Wipe the goose and season inside and out with salt and pepper. Chop goose liver and mix with pork, bacon, eggs and seasonings. Pare apples, cut in quarters and cook with f/2 cup cider, cloves and mace. Cool, mash, add applejack and add to pork mixture, mixing well. Stuff goose and sew up apertures. Lay pork rind in deep pot, and place goose on top. Heat stock and remaining cider together and pour over. Add onion, leek, and carrot. Cook rapidly 10 minutes, then cover and simmer, turning occasionally, until done. Take up. Skim fat from liquid and thicken. Serve apple marmalade on the side. The French speak of Normandy la Grasse, "the fat," and they ought to know. Cream-fattened, cider-swelled, cheesestuffed, this rich province tucks her legs under the mahogany to gorge on the cuisine a la creme: tripes a la mode de Caen, the buttered ducks of Rouen on which apple-jack is burned and not considered wasted, mussels stewed in cream, lobster with shrimp butter sauce, the shrimp themselves big, blush-rose beauties. Sole sauteed in cider, wine-soused mackerel, chitterlings grilled in paper buttered with the exceptional beurre fine of Isigny. Omelette de la Mere Poulard, Mother Fat-Hen's cream omelet with egg yolks and whites beaten separately, as justly