Elements of the theory and practice of cookery

336. Examine an oyster from which the flat shell has been removed. Has it any bones? How is its body protected? Ob- serve the thin membrane (jnantle) covering the oyster ; its fringed edges form the gills. Find on either shell a blue spot showing where the muscle is attached that opens and closes the shell ; also the dark spot on the oyster where the liver is. 337. How the oyster lives. — Oysters, clams, mussels, and scallops are salt-water shell-fish belonging to the family of mollusks^ or soft-bodied animals. Their shells, built up of mineral matter secreted by the mantle, form a sort of outside skeleton. The young oyster floats about, but as its shell grows thicker and heavier, it set- tles down on the sand or rocks, the half shell, or valve^ on which it lies becoming rounder and deeper than the one that covers it. The oyster has neither head nor limbs, but has a mouth near the hinge-end of its shell, and two strong muscles, one to open the shell to take in food and water, the other to close it, if a starfish or other enemy comes by. Oysters grow crowded together, forming oyster-heds. Oysters spawn in summer, one individual laying millions of eggs in a season. During this period they are not good food. Like fish, oysters are cultivated, baby-oysters, called "seed-oysters," being planted all along the Atlantic coast. 338. Experiment. — Boil a little oyster liquor. What forms on top? What foodstuff do oysters evidently contain? At what temperature, and for about what length of time, would you cook them? THE FLESH OF ANIMALS 209 339. Preparation of oysters. — Oysters are commonly opened by the fish-dealer. To clean oysters, drain off the liquor, straining it through a wire strainer if it is to be used. Rinse the oysters on a colander, using only half a cupful of cold water to one quart of oysters^ to avoid washing away the flavor. With the fingers ex- amine the gills to see that no bits of shell are left cling- ing to them. How to serve raw oysters. — Raw oysters are served with lemon juice and red or black pepper as a first course at dinner or luncheon, or for an invalid. Ar- range six oysters " on the half shell," on crushed ice on each plate, small ends toward the centre. Place a quarter of a lemon in the middle of the circle. 340. Oysters as food : easily digestible, but not cheap. — Oysters have about the same composition as milk, con- taining carbohydrate matter^ which most flesh foods lack. Since they commonly cost at least five times as much as milk, they are clearly not an economical food; but for their flavor and ease of digestibility they are highly prized. Large oysters are, generally speaking, more nutritious than small ones. Oysters are commonly made plump and white by being put into fresh or brack- ish (half-salt) water for about two days before they are taken to market. During this "fattening" process they gain weight by taking in water, but lose some of the mineral matter that gives them their salty flavor, and probably a small quantity of other foodstuffs. 1 Glycogen (animal starch) in the liver. 210 THEORY AND PRACTICE OF COOKERY Recipes Oyster Stew Stewing oysters, 1 pint. Butter, 2 tablespoonfuls. Hot milk, 1 cupful. Salt. Pepper, a few grains.