cook and his mistress, and I am inclined to think that
Ramasamy is generally in the wi'ong. Still, we should be
careful lest we limit his supply of fuel too closely — espe-
cially on a dinner party day. I once was a guest at a
house where the dinner was served perfectly as far as the
joint, when a sudden collapse took place ; the game and
dressed vegetable were stone-cold. The excuse the next
day was, " charcoal all done finish, and Missis only got
godown key in the pocket."
Unless you have tried to find out practically what can
be done with the fish, flesh, fowl, and vegetables of this
country, by studious cookery, you will scarcely believe the
extent of your power, and how independent you really are
of preserved provisions. It is absolutely annoying to read
the nonsense people write about our style of living in
India. I remember an article headed " Curry and Rice"
which once appeared in Vanity Fair. The writer wrecked
on the rock upon which many drift, who, with a little
knowledge of the peculiarities of some particular part of
the country, sit down with impudent confidence to treat of
India generally, quite forgetting that the Peninsula is a
large one, and that the manners and customs which obtain
in one district, may never have been heard of in other
parts of the Empire. The article was not applicable to
any part of the Madras Presidency, and judging from the
^T:'iter's suggestions as to the cookery of a tin of beef with
yams, and worse still, the fabrication of soup from the
fowl hones you piclced and left at luncTieon, I should say
that Vanity had picked up not only an ignoramus, but an
uncleanly ignoramus, as a contributor. Our friends at
Home were told by this audacious man that no dinner was
complete in India without a " bui^ning curry," and that
none was successful " without Europe tins." I think that,
as we go on, I shall be able to prove that at Madras, at
ail events, we can do pretty well without either.
28 CULINARY JOTTINGS FOR MADRAS.
Altliougli I am strongly against the use of tinned things
to the extent that many allow, there are nevertheless
many articles Trhich you must have in the store-room : —
pickles, sauces, jams, bacon, cheese, maccaroni, vermicelli,
vinegars, flavouring essences, the invaluable truffle, tart
fruits, biscuits, isinglass, arrowroot, oatmeal, pearl barley,
cornflour, olives, capers, dined herbs, and so on. Grated
Parmesan cheese (sold in bottles by Crosse and Blackwell)
should never be forgotten, the salad oil should be the best
procurable, and no store-room should be without tarragon
vinegar, ancho\y vinegar, French vinegar, and white wine
vinegar. Amongst sauces I consider " Harvey" the best
for general use ; Sutton's " Empress of India," is a strong
sauce with a real flavour of mushrooms ; Moir's sauces and
" Reading sauce" are very trustworthy, and there are
otliei*s which, no doubt, commend themselves to different
palates, but I denounce " Worcester sauce" and " Tapp's
sauce" as agents far too powerful to be trusted to the hands
of the native cook. Sutton's essence of anchovies is said
to possess the charm of not clotting, or forming a stoppage
in the neck of the bottle. I have a deep respect for both
walnut and mushroom ketchup, soy, and tomato conserve.
Then as special trifles, we must not forget caviare, olives
farcies J and anchovies in oil.
Page 16
Presented as published in 1885. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
cook and his mistress, and I am inclined to think that Ramasamy is generally in the wrong. Still, we should be careful lest we limit his supply of fuel too closely — especially on a dinner party day. I once was a guest at a house where the dinner was served perfectly as far as the joint, when a sudden collapse took place ; the game and dressed vegetable were stone-cold. The excuse the next day was, " charcoal all done finish, and Missis only got godown key in the pocket."
Unless you have tried to find out practically what can be done with the fish, flesh, fowl, and vegetables of this country, by studious cookery, you will scarcely believe the extent of your power, and how independent you really are of preserved provisions. It is absolutely annoying to read the nonsense people write about our style of living in India. I remember an article headed " Curry and Rice" which once appeared in Vanity Fair. The writer wrecked on the rock upon which many drift, who, with a little knowledge of the peculiarities of some particular part of the country, sit down with impudent confidence to treat of India generally, quite forgetting that the Peninsula is a large one, and that the manners and customs which obtain in one district, may never have been heard of in other parts of the Empire. The article was not applicable to any part of the Madras Presidency, and judging from the ^T:'iter's suggestions as to the cookery of a tin of beef with yams, and worse still, the fabrication of soup from the fowl bones you picked and left at luncheon, I should say that Vanity had picked up not only an ignoramus, but an uncleanly ignoramus, as a contributor. Our friends at Home were told by this audacious man that no dinner was complete in India without a " burning curry," and that none was successful " without Europe tins." I think that, as we go on, I shall be able to prove that at Madras, at ail events, we can do pretty well without either.
Altliougli I am strongly against the use of tinned things to the extent that many allow, there are nevertheless many articles which you must have in the store-room : — pickles, sauces, jams, bacon, cheese, maccaroni, vermicelli, vinegars, flavouring essences, the invaluable truffle, tart fruits, biscuits, isinglass, arrowroot, oatmeal, pearl barley, cornflour, olives, capers, dried herbs, and so on. Grated Parmesan cheese (sold in bottles by Crosse and Blackwell) should never be forgotten, the salad oil should be the best procurable, and no store-room should be without tarragon vinegar, anchovy vinegar, French vinegar, and white wine vinegar. Amongst sauces I consider " Harvey" the best for general use ; Sutton's " Empress of India," is a strong sauce with a real flavour of mushrooms ; Moir's sauces and " Reading sauce" are very trustworthy, and there are others which, no doubt, commend themselves to different palates, but I denounce " Worcester sauce" and " Tapp's sauce" as agents far too powerful to be trusted to the hands of the native cook. Sutton's essence of anchovies is said to possess the charm of not clotting, or forming a stoppage in the neck of the bottle. I have a deep respect for both walnut and mushroom ketchup, soy, and tomato conserve. Then as special trifles, we must not forget caviare, olives farcies and anchovies in oil.