a beautiful picture has been made of a field of eal3- bages ; yet the farmer who sees a man sit down with canvas and brnsh before his cabbage patch usually regards him as a crank, for to his untutored mind cabbages are associated onlj' with their utility. INlany housekeepers are equallj- mistaken in their views about this vegetable, and consider it coarse food fit to serve only garnished with apologies. Such opinions are based on error, however, for the cab- bage is both beautiful to look at and delicious to eat. There are many receipts for cooking cabbage which make it as delicate a dish as caulitlower. In the ease of spinach, since the form cannot be preserved, recourse is had to molding ; the color also may be heightened by contrast with other colors. Illustration No. 5 shows spinach molded by being pressed into a basin decorated with the whites of hard-boiled eggs, and with croutons placed around the form after it is unmolded. Both the eggs and the croutons improve the taste of the spinach. The basin was first buttered to hold the egg in place while the design was being arranged. Crumbed yolk of hard-boiled egg sprinkled over spinach is another garnishing for this vegetable which enhances its green color and gives the dish a better appearance. There are many ways of cooking any vegetable. These various ways may serve for change, but few of thern are better than the simple one of boiling and serving with a suitable sauce. Attention should be given to dishing vegetables so that there is no ap- pearance of their having been turned carelessly on to the platter. A neatly folded napkin can be used under dry, unseasoned vegetables, like asparagus, artichokes, or corn. The napkin gives daintiness to 20 LUNCHEONS the dish, and in the case of corn, when folded over it, helps to keep it hot. COLD DISHES It has been said above that discrimination should be made in garnishing dishes ; those to be served hot, for instance, should go directly from the fire to the table, and not be allowed to become cool while being elaboratelj' garnished ; on the other hand, cold dishes demand no haste and permit of so much elaboration that at suppers and buffet luncheons they are de- pended upon largely for table decoration. The accomplished cook considers the work on cold pieces an opportunity for giving examples of his skill, and the ornamentation of molds and chaud- froids a kind of fancy work which requires nicety and taste. Under the head of cold dishes come all the salads, the pates, gelatines, cold fish dishes, ices, and sweets. In each of these there is range in M'hich to displaj^ culinary accomplishments. The skill re- quisite for moderate adornment of these dishes is not so great that one need hesitate to undertake them. Cold dishes are often more gratefully re- ceived in summer than hot ones, therefore it is de- sirable that every cook should be able to serve them in attractive forms. Again, from an economic point of view they are desirable, as meats can he served a second time in cold forms quite as acceptably as before. Many meats, when served cold, require to be boned and pressed into good shape. Ordinary kitchen boards weighted down serve very well for a press. The meat, while hot, is put into molds, or is rolled LUNCHEONS 21 in cloth, the ends tied, and then placed in the press. Small muffin-rings can be used for sweetbreads, bread-tins or oval molds for other meats. Chaud- froid sauce is often spread over galantines, and jel- lied mayonnaise over cold fish. On this smooth sur- face the decoration is laid in some design traced in fancy cuts of truffle, or in a combination of white of egg with truffles, cold tongue, olives, and other suit- able things which give color. See illustration No. 114.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

a beautiful picture has been made of a field of cabbages ; yet the farmer who sees a man sit down with canvas and brush before his cabbage patch usually regards him as a crank, for to his untutored mind cabbages are associated only with their utility. INlany housekeepers are equally mistaken in their views about this vegetable, and consider it coarse food fit to serve only garnished with apologies. Such opinions are based on error, however, for the cabbage is both beautiful to look at and delicious to eat. There are many receipts for cooking cabbage which make it as delicate a dish as cauliflower. In the ease of spinach, since the form cannot be preserved, recourse is had to molding ; the color also may be heightened by contrast with other colors. Illustration No. 5 shows spinach molded by being pressed into a basin decorated with the whites of hard-boiled eggs, and with croutons placed around the form after it is unmolded. Both the eggs and the croutons improve the taste of the spinach. The basin was first buttered to hold the egg in place while the design was being arranged. Crumbed yolk of hard-boiled egg sprinkled over spinach is another garnishing for this vegetable which enhances its green color and gives the dish a better appearance. There are many ways of cooking any vegetable. These various ways may serve for change, but few of them are better than the simple one of boiling and serving with a suitable sauce. Attention should be given to dishing vegetables so that there is no appearance of their having been turned carelessly on to the platter. A neatly folded napkin can be used under dry, unseasoned vegetables, like asparagus, artichokes, or corn. The napkin gives daintiness to the dish, and in the case of corn, when folded over it, helps to keep it hot. COLD DISHES It has been said above that discrimination should be made in garnishing dishes ; those to be served hot, for instance, should go directly from the fire to the table, and not be allowed to become cool while being elaborately garnished ; on the other hand, cold dishes demand no haste and permit of so much elaboration that at suppers and buffet luncheons they are depended upon largely for table decoration. The accomplished cook considers the work on cold pieces an opportunity for giving examples of his skill, and the ornamentation of molds and chaudfroids a kind of fancy work which requires nicety and taste. Under the head of cold dishes come all the salads, the pates, gelatines, cold fish dishes, ices, and sweets. In each of these there is range in which to display culinary accomplishments. The skill requisite for moderate adornment of these dishes is not so great that one need hesitate to undertake them. Cold dishes are often more gratefully received in summer than hot ones, therefore it is desirable that every cook should be able to serve them in attractive forms. Again, from an economic point of view they are desirable, as meats can he served a second time in cold forms quite as acceptably as before. Many meats, when served cold, require to be boned and pressed into good shape. Ordinary kitchen boards weighted down serve very well for a press. The meat, while hot, is put into molds, or is rolled in cloth, the ends tied, and then placed in the press. Small muffin-rings can be used for sweetbreads, bread-tins or oval molds for other meats. Chaudfroid sauce is often spread over galantines, and jellied mayonnaise over cold fish. On this smooth surface the decoration is laid in some design traced in fancy cuts of truffle, or in a combination of white of egg with truffles, cold tongue, olives, and other suitable things which give color. See illustration No. 114.

Luncheons