FoodNet

Luncheons

1902

Page 10

Presented as published in 1902. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Aspic jelly is a principal reliance for covering cold pieces. It is not masking in this case, for the jelly should be perfectly transparent, while masking con- ceals the material of which the dish is composed. Aspic is also cut into small triangles or in squares to make borders, and is sometimes chopped and used for decoration. See illustration No. 3. Aspic is no longer one of the difficult preparations reserved for the hand of the very experienced cook. Any of the beef or chicken extracts stiffened with gelatine, and seasoned and cleared if necessary, make good aspic. The preparation is as simple as that of any jelly. A little care, however, in molding and handling is requisite for good results. Jellied vegetables are ap- propriate to use with jellied or other cold meats. Small cups are used for molding them, and the pieces can be made very ornamental. See illustration No. 6. The small forms placed around meat and served with a green salad make an attractive cold course. Fancy skewers are much employed on cold meats. Their office is purely ornamental, so when they are used trouble is not to be considered. A fancy-headed skewer is run through, perhaps, a fine red cockscomb, then a truffle, then a fancy cut of lemon, or a mush- 22 LUNCHEONS room, or a carved vegetable. Truffles in combination with vegetables molded in aspic and quenelles also are often used. If all these things are impracticable, one can devise combinations more easily obtained. A trussing needle can be utilized, concealing the head in a section of lemon and building down with carrot and turnip in alternating colors and shapes, and perhaps using a crawfish, an egg, or an olive in the combination. See illustration No. 7. French authors recommend that these skewers be employed only occasionally, so that they may not lose the at- traction which novelty gives them. Cracked, crushed, or ground ice can often be used with good effect. It gives crispness to olives, celery, radishes, and cucumbers, and enhances the beauty of the dish as well. AVith raw oysters it is indispen- sable, and with melons very desirable. A free use of ice on the summer breakfast table will go far toward inviting an appetite for that meal. It is well to remember that although great elabora- tion is possible in cold dishes, it is not necessary, and dishes can be made very attractive without chaud- froid, aspic, or traced designs. If the pieces are shapely, they will look well if simply sprinkled with chopped parsley, chopped white of egg, or the crumbed yolks, and dressed with any of the green salads. Flowers also can be used to aid in adorn- ment. FISH As fish dishes rank with any other kind in point of attractiveness, and are open to almost as great a variety of garnisliing as are meats, the same general J ANCV :^Kl:,\VEliS roi; <>AKM!SHlN<_i roLD MEAT <>U FISH ])ISJlL.s. 1. IMnr-lirooii;, ("_'r;iii]K'iTy, or ''ilivH, wliolo Hard Edilfd Eg.ir, Craolii-vry. ]\Insljroiiiii. 2. ('.■raiiliciTy (ir 01i\"'-. Jl'ri.\vH, r^uartt-r iif Loinou. Pr;i"\vii, CiMiibi-rry. or Olivo. 3. Mitsbrooiu ^vitli .Stem. XntcbiMl Slice of Li'iuou. <.'r;nibrri'y ov (")li\-('. Lemuu, CranlxTry, or Olive. NO. 8. BOILED FISH IS SWIMMING TOSITIUN. NO. 9. BOILED SECTION OF FISH COVERED WITH WHITE SAUCE AND GAKNISHED WITH CHOPPED PARSLEY AND POTATO BALLS. LUNCHEONS 23