In such an emharras de choix as given by all these
drink receipts, we may be in doubt whether to try
" My Lord Gorge's Meath," or " The Countess
of Newport's " cherry wine, or " The sweet drink
of my Lady Stuart," or of Lady Windebanke, or
" Sir Paul Neile's way of making cider," or "my
Lord Carlisle's Sack posset" ; but one is strongly
influenced by such a note as " Sir Edward Sainton's
Receipt which my Lord of Portland (who gave it
me) saith, was the best he ever drank." I had
thought of Saint-Evremond as warrior and wit,
delightful satirist and letter- writer. But here is a
streak of new light upon him : " Monsieur St.
Euvremont makes thus his potage de sante of
boiled meat for dinner being very valetudinary.
. . . When he is in pretty good health, that he may
venture upon more savoury hotter things, &c."
The most rigorous Protestants will relax to hear
how " To make a Pan Cotto as the Cardinals use
in Rome." And if " My Lord Lumley's Pease
Pottage" sounds homely, be it known, on the word
of the eloquent Robert May, that his lordship
" wanted no knowledge in the discerning this mys-
tery." What fastidious simplicity in the taste of
the great is suggested by " My Lord d'Aubigny
eats Red-herrings thus boiled " !
But if Sir Kenelm consorted only with the great,
it was with the great of all social ranks. It was not
merely on high questions of science he discoursed
with the discoverer of the circulation of the blood
1 INTRODUCTIOJj^
— witness " Dr. Harvey's pleasant water cider."
Then there was that "Chief Burgomaster of Ant-
werpe," with whom he must have been on pretty-
intimate terms, to learn that he " used for many
years to drink no other drink but this [mead] ; at
Meals and all times, even for pledging of healths.
And though He was an old man, he was of an extra-
ordinary vigor every way, and had every year a
Child, had always a great appetite, and good diges-
tion ; and yet was not fat." Digby was too great a
gentleman to be above exchanging receipts with the
professors of the " mystery," such as the Mus-
covian Ambassador's steward ; and when " Master
Webbe who maketh the King's meath," on the ist
of September, 1663, came to his house to make
some for him. Sir Kenelm stood by, a little sus-
picious lest the other great artist was bamboozling
him. He had an eye for all — though it may have
been one of his correspondents who says of the
remnants of a dish that it " will make good Water-
gruel for the Servants."
The seriousness of the business is tremendous ;
and to ignore the fine shades in the 106 receipts for
mead and metheglin would have been a frivolity
unknown in Digby's circle. There is care ; there is
conscience ; there is rivalry. The ingredients are
minp-led with a nice discrimination between the
rights of the palate and the maintenance of health.
"Use only Morello cherries (I think) for pleasure,
and black ones for health." You may not wait your
own convenience in such serious business. " It is
best made by taking all the Canicular days into your
INTRODUCTIOD^ li
Page 20
Presented as published in 1910. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
In such an embarrass de choix as given by all these drink receipts, we may be in doubt whether to try " My Lord Gorge's Meath," or " The Countess of Newport's " cherry wine, or " The sweet drink of my Lady Stuart," or of Lady Windebanke, or " Sir Paul Neile's way of making cider," or "my Lord Carlisle's Sack posset" ; but one is strongly influenced by such a note as " Sir Edward Sainton's Receipt which my Lord of Portland (who gave it me) saith, was the best he ever drank." I had thought of Saint-Evremond as warrior and wit, delightful satirist and letter-writer. But here is a streak of new light upon him : " Monsieur St. Evremond makes thus his potage de sante of boiled meat for dinner being very valetudinary. . . . When he is in pretty good health, that he may venture upon more savoury hotter things, &c." The most rigorous Protestants will relax to hear how " To make a Pan Cotto as the Cardinals use in Rome." And if " My Lord Lumley's Pease Pottage" sounds homely, be it known, on the word of the eloquent Robert May, that his lordship " wanted no knowledge in the discerning this mystery." What fastidious simplicity in the taste of the great is suggested by " My Lord d'Aubigny eats Red-herrings thus boiled " !
But if Sir Kenelm consorted only with the great, it was with the great of all social ranks. It was not merely on high questions of science he discoursed with the discoverer of the circulation of the blood
1 INTRODUCTION
— witness " Dr. Harvey's pleasant water cider." Then there was that "Chief Burgomaster of Antwerpe," with whom he must have been on pretty intimate terms, to learn that he " used for many years to drink no other drink but this [mead] ; at Meals and all times, even for pledging of healths. And though He was an old man, he was of an extraordinary vigor every way, and had every year a Child, had always a great appetite, and good digestion ; and yet was not fat." Digby was too great a gentleman to be above exchanging receipts with the professors of the " mystery," such as the Muscovian Ambassador's steward ; and when " Master Webbe who maketh the King's meath," on the ist of September, 1663, came to his house to make some for him. Sir Kenelm stood by, a little suspicious lest the other great artist was bamboozling him. He had an eye for all — though it may have been one of his correspondents who says of the remnants of a dish that it " will make good Watergruel for the Servants."
The seriousness of the business is tremendous ; and to ignore the fine shades in the 106 receipts for mead and metheglin would have been a frivolity unknown in Digby's circle. There is care ; there is conscience ; there is rivalry. The ingredients are minp-led with a nice discrimination between the rights of the palate and the maintenance of health. "Use only Morello cherries (I think) for pleasure, and black ones for health." You may not wait your own convenience in such serious business. " It is best made by taking all the Canicular days into your
INTRODUCTION li