Very true ; and it is to just such perplexed young housekeepers that I hope this chapter will be especially useful— that is to say, small families with moderate means and a taste for good things. In this, as in many other ways, large families are easier to cater for ; they can consume the better part of a roast at a meal, and the remains it is no great harm to turn into hash, al- though eyen they might, with little trouble and expense, have agreeable variety introduced into their bill of fare. In England and America there is great prejudice against warmed-over food, but on the continent one eats it half the time in some of the most delicious-made dishes without suspecting it. Herein lies the secret. With us and our transatlantic cousins the warming over is so artlessly done, that the liard fact too often stares at us from out the watery expanse in which it reposes. One great reason of the failure to make warmed-over meat satisfactory is the lack of gravy. On the goodness of this (as well as its presence) depends the success of your recJiauffL The glaze, for which I have given the recipe, renders you at all times independent in this respect, but at the same time it should not alone be depended on. Every drop of what remains in the dish from the roast should be saved, and great care be taken of all scraps, bones, and gristle, which should be carefully boiled down to save the necessity of flying to the glaze for every pur- pose. I will here give several recipes, which I think may be new to many readers. Salmi of Cold Meat is exceedingly good. Melt butter in a saucepan, if for quite a small dish two ounces will 4 74 Culture and Cooking, be sufficient ; when melted^ stir in a little flour to thicken ; let it brown^ but not burn, or, if you are pre- paring the dish in haste, put in some brown flour ; then add a glass of white or red wine and a cup of broth, or a cup of water and a slice of glaze, a sprig or two of thyme, parsley, a small onion, chopped, and one bay leaf, pepper, and salt. Simmer all thoroughly (all sayory dishes to which wine is added should simmer long enough for the distinct ^^winey^^ flavor to disap- pear, only the strength and richness remaining). Strain this when simmered half an hour and lay in the cold meat. Squeeze in a little lemon juice and draw the stew-pan to the back of the stove, but where it will cook no longer, or the meat will harden. Serve on toast, and pour the sauce over. A glass of brandy added to this dish✪ Salmi of Cold Meat when the meat goes in is a great addition, if an extra fine salmi is desired. By not allowing the flour and butter to brown and using white wine, this is a very fine sauce in which to warm cold chicken, veal, or any wliite meat.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Very true ; and it is to just such perplexed young housekeepers that I hope this chapter will be especially useful— that is to say, small families with moderate means and a taste for good things. In this, as in many other ways, large families are easier to cater for ; they can consume the better part of a roast at a meal, and the remains it is no great harm to turn into hash, although even they might, with little trouble and expense, have agreeable variety introduced into their bill of fare. In England and America there is great prejudice against warmed-over food, but on the continent one eats it half the time in some of the most delicious-made dishes without suspecting it. Herein lies the secret. With us and our transatlantic cousins the warming over is so artlessly done, that the hard fact too often stares at us from out the watery expanse in which it reposes. One great reason of the failure to make warmed-over meat satisfactory is the lack of gravy. On the goodness of this (as well as its presence) depends the success of your réchauffé. The glaze, for which I have given the recipe, renders you at all times independent in this respect, but at the same time it should not alone be depended on. Every drop of what remains in the dish from the roast should be saved, and great care be taken of all scraps, bones, and gristle, which should be carefully boiled down to save the necessity of flying to the glaze for every purpose. I will here give several recipes, which I think may be new to many readers. Salmi of Cold Meat is exceedingly good. Melt butter in a saucepan, if for quite a small dish two ounces will 74 Culture and Cooking, be sufficient ; when melted, stir in a little flour to thicken ; let it brown, but not burn, or, if you are preparing the dish in haste, put in some brown flour ; then add a glass of white or red wine and a cup of broth, or a cup of water and a slice of glaze, a sprig or two of thyme, parsley, a small onion, chopped, and one bay leaf, pepper, and salt. Simmer all thoroughly (all sayory dishes to which wine is added should simmer long enough for the distinct "winey" flavor to disappear, only the strength and richness remaining). Strain this when simmered half an hour and lay in the cold meat. Squeeze in a little lemon juice and draw the stew-pan to the back of the stove, but where it will cook no longer, or the meat will harden. Serve on toast, and pour the sauce over. A glass of brandy added to this dish when the meat goes in is a great addition, if an extra fine salmi is desired. By not allowing the flour and butter to brown and using white wine, this is a very fine sauce in which to warm cold chicken, veal, or any white meat.

Records on this page

Salmi of Cold Meat

Catherine Owen's new cook book ..