FoodNet

Bohemian San Francisco

1914

Page 8

Presented as published in 1914. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Christian Good, at Washington and Kearny, Big John, at Merchant street between Montgomery and San- some, Marsliall's Chop House, in the old Center Market, and Johnson's Oyster House, in a basement at Clay and Leidcsdorff streets, were all noted places and much pat- ronized, the latter laying the foundation of one of San U SAN FRANCISCO Francisco's "First Families." Martin's was much pat- ronized by the Old Comstock crowd, and this was the favorite dining place of the late William C. Ralston. EARLY One of the most famous restau- ITALIAN rants of the early '70s was the Mint, IMPRESSION in Commercial street, between Mont- gomery and Kearny, where the present restaurant of the same name is located. It was noted for its Southern cooking and was the favorite resort of W. W. Foote and other prominent Southerners. The kitchen was pre- sided over by old Billy Jackson, an old-time Southern darkey, who made a specialty of fried chicken, cream gravy, and corn fritters. 15 BOHEMIAN French impression came strongly about this time, and the Poodle Dog, of Paris, had its prototype at Bush and Dupont streets. This was one of the BIUTll OF THE earliest of the type known as "French FRENCH Restaurants," and numerous conviv- RESTAURANT ial parties of men and women found its private rooms convenient for ren- dezvous. Old Pierre of later days, who was found dead out on the Colma road some two years after the fire of 1906, was a waiter at the Poodle Dog when it started, and by saving his tips and making good investments he was able to open a similar restaurant at Stockton and Market, which he called the Pup. The Pup was famous for its frogs' legs a la poulette. In this venture Pierre had a partner, to whom he sold out a few years later and then he opened the Tortoni in O'Farrcll street, which became one of the most famous of the pre-fire restaurants, its table d'hote dinners being considered the best in the city. When Glaus Spreckcls built the tall Spreckcls building Pierre and his partner opened the Call restaurant in the top stories. With the fire both of the restaurants went out of existence, and the old proprietor of the Poodle Dog having died, Pierre and a partner named Pon bought the place, and for a year or so after the fire it was one of the best French restaurants in the city. After Pierre's untimely death the restaurant was merged with Bergez and Frank's, and is now in Bush street above Kearny. Much romance attached to Pierre, it being generally believed that he belonged to a wealthy French family, because of his education, his unfailing courtesy, his ready wit and his gentility. Pierre specialized in fish cooked with wine, and as a favor to his patrons he would go to the kitchen and prepare the dish with his own hands. In O'Farrcll street the Dclmonico was one of the most famous of the French restaurants until the fire. 16 SAN FRANCISCO It was several stories high, and each story contained private rooms. Carriages drove directly into the building from the street and the occupants went by elevator to sound- BIRTH OF THE proof rooms above, where they were FRENCH served by discreet waiters. RESTAURANT