of 1906. Gourmets soon discovered IMPRESSION
that the California House offered
something unusual and it became a famed resort.
Somali's specialties were roast turkey, Chateaubriand
steak and coffee frappe. It is said of his turkeys that
their flavor was of such excellence that one of the gour-
mands of that day, Michael Reece, would always order
two when he gave a dinner — one for his guests and one
for himself. It is also said that our well-beloved Bo-
hemian, Rafael Weill, still holds memories of the old
California House, of which he was an habitue, and from
whose excellent chef he learned to appreciate the art
and science of cooking as evidenced by the breakfasts
and dinners with which he regales his guests at the
present day.
But many of the hardy pioneers were of English and
American stock and preferred the plainer foods of their
old homes to the highly seasoned dishes of the Latin
chefs, and to cater to this growing demand the Nevada
was opened in Pine street between Montgomery and
Kearny. This place became noted for its roast beef and
also for its corned beef and cabbage, which was said to
be of most excellent flavor.
Most famous of all the old oyster houses was Man-
nings, at the corner of Pine and Webb streets. He spec-
ialized in oysters and many of his dishes have survived
to the present day. It is said that the style now called
"Oysters Kirkpatrick," is but a variant of Manning's
"Oyster Salt Roast."
At the corner of California and Sansome streets,
where now stands the Bank of California, was the
Tehama House, one of the most famous of the city's
13
BOHEMIAN
early hostclries, whose restaurant was famed for its
excellence. The Tehama House was the rendezvous of
army and navy officers and high state
EARLY ofTicials. Lieutenant John Derby, of
ITALIAN the United States Army, one of the
IMPRESSION most widely known western authors
of that day, made it his headquar-
ters. Derbv wrote under the names of "John Phoenix,"
and "Squibob."
Perini's, in Post street between Grant avenue and
Stockton, specialized in pastes and veal rissotto, and
was much patronized by uptown men.
The original Marchand began business in a little
room in Dupont street, between Jackson and Washing-
ton, which district at that time had not been given over
to the Chinese, and he cooked over a charcoal brazier,
in his window, in view of passing people who were at-
tracted by the novelty and retained by the good cook-
ing. With the extension of his fame he found his room
too small and he rented a cottage at Bush and Dupont
street, but his business grew so rapidly that he was com-
pelled to move to more commodious quarters at Post
and Dupont and later to a much larger place at Geary
and Stockton, where he enjoyed good patronage until
the fire destroyed his place. There is now a restaurant
in Geary street near Mason which has on its windows
in very small letters "Michael, formerly of," and then in
bold lettering, "Marchands." But Michael has neither
the art nor the viands that made Marchands famous,
and he is content to say that his most famous dish is
tripe — just plain, plebeian tripe.
Page 7
Presented as published in 1914. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
of 1906. Gourmets soon discovered IMPRESSION that the California House offered something unusual and it became a famed resort. Somali's specialties were roast turkey, Chateaubriand steak and coffee frappe. It is said of his turkeys that their flavor was of such excellence that one of the gourmands of that day, Michael Reece, would always order two when he gave a dinner — one for his guests and one for himself. It is also said that our well-beloved Bohemian, Rafael Weill, still holds memories of the old California House, of which he was an habitue, and from whose excellent chef he learned to appreciate the art and science of cooking as evidenced by the breakfasts and dinners with which he regales his guests at the present day.
But many of the hardy pioneers were of English and American stock and preferred the plainer foods of their old homes to the highly seasoned dishes of the Latin chefs, and to cater to this growing demand the Nevada was opened in Pine street between Montgomery and Kearny. This place became noted for its roast beef and also for its corned beef and cabbage, which was said to be of most excellent flavor.
Most famous of all the old oyster houses was Mannings, at the corner of Pine and Webb streets. He specialized in oysters and many of his dishes have survived to the present day. It is said that the style now called "Oysters Kirkpatrick," is but a variant of Manning's "Oyster Salt Roast."
At the corner of California and Sansome streets, where now stands the Bank of California, was the Tehama House, one of the most famous of the city's
early hostclries, whose restaurant was famed for its
excellence. The Tehama House was the rendezvous of
army and navy officers and high state
EARLY ofTicials. Lieutenant John Derby, of
ITALIAN the United States Army, one of the IMPRESSION most widely known western authors of that day, made it his headquarters. Derbv wrote under the names of "John Phoenix," and "Squibob."
Perini's, in Post street between Grant avenue and Stockton, specialized in pastes and veal rissotto, and was much patronized by uptown men.
The original Marchand began business in a little room in Dupont street, between Jackson and Washington, which district at that time had not been given over to the Chinese, and he cooked over a charcoal brazier, in his window, in view of passing people who were attracted by the novelty and retained by the good cooking. With the extension of his fame he found his room too small and he rented a cottage at Bush and Dupont street, but his business grew so rapidly that he was compelled to move to more commodious quarters at Post and Dupont and later to a much larger place at Geary and Stockton, where he enjoyed good patronage until the fire destroyed his place. There is now a restaurant in Geary street near Mason which has on its windows in very small letters "Michael, formerly of," and then in bold lettering, "Marchands." But Michael has neither the art nor the viands that made Marchands famous, and he is content to say that his most famous dish is tripe — just plain, plebeian tripe.