FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 27

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
If you are going by a mid-day train from the Gare St. Lazare, you can breakfast in reasonable comfort at the Restaurant Mollard, facing the station, or at the Restaurant de la Pepiniere, a rotisserie which Mr. Roland Strong was the first Englishman to discover, and which has since prospered exceedingly. The food there is very cheap, and the game and poultry are excep- tionally well cooked. The Restaurant Lequen, facing the Gare du Nord, is also a well-managed establish- ment. 44 ^he Gourmet's Guide to Europe The Restaurants of the Ouartier Of the restaurants of the Quartier, Lavenue’s, opposite the Montparnasse station, is one of the best. Lavenue R has a cafe, which is quite gorgeous, 68 Boulevard and in the three little rooms at the Montparnasse back some 0f the most celebrated men of the world of art — Rodin and Falguiere, and Jean Paul Laurens and Bonnat and Whistler — used to meet to breakfast and to talk art. At the Cafe Soufflot Cafe Soufflot the budding doctors and the students Boulevard St. of the Polytechnic hold their feasts ; Miehe1 and at Thirion’s, on the Boulevard St. Germain, you will find half the young British and American art students in Paris at breakfast. Thirion’s looks like a cheap photographer’s studio, for its walls Thirion, Boule- are chiefly of glass. A bill of fare is vard St. Ger- . pasted on the window-panes of the mam ground floor giving the plats de jour and the prices. Just inside, Madame, plump and smiling, sits at her desk. The waiters rush back- wards and forwards, doing wonderful balancing tricks with piles of plates and mugs of beer, the chickens stray in from the back yard and pick up crumbs, and a great noise of jovial Anglo-Saxon speech drowns the clatter of knives and forks and plates. Thackeray used to breakfast at Thirion’s when he was an art student, and Dickens knew the little restaurant well. Montmartre Restaurants There are many places where one may dine, and dine well and cheaply, in the Montmartre district ; Rat Mort, Place but different establishments gather in Pigalle a very different clientele at different hours of the evening. At the Rat Mort, in the Place ^Petris 45 Pigalle, early in the evening artists and artists’ models and other people of the Butte dine and pay 2.50 f. for their dinner. Later in the evening the butterflies of Paris take possession of the restaurant. Abba>ye de So it is with the Abbaye de Theleme, Thelkme, Place almost next door to the Rat. At 7 p.m. Plgalle it has its diners, none of whom is overburdened with money. At 2 a.m. Grand Dukes and millionaires from South America and the young men about town of all nationalities, and actresses and cocottes de grande marque occupy all the tables. There is a third restaurant in the Place Pigalle in the same building as a little music hall ; a restaurant which has led a short and chequered life. The police thought that the suppers at a louis a head which were graced by the presence of ladies in the costume of Eve were a scandal, and closed the restaurant for a time, but it has now reopened on far more respectable lines, and describes itself as Pigal’s. The music hall is now occupied by a cinematograph show.