FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 26

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
la Bourse. Its dining-room is a winter garden, with trees, palms, hanging baskets, a fountain, and an abundance of flowers as decorations. It was at the Champeaux that the Chateaubriand was invented, and the cuisine has always been of the best. I need hardly pause to tell my readers what a real Chateau- briand is, but I find that even in Paris any thick steak is called by that name. The real Chateaubriand was invented for the great man of that name by the first Champeaux. It is a steak of great thickness with two thin slices of rump-steak tied above and below it. These slices are burned in the cooking and are thrown away, the steak done-through being passed over a bright fire before being served, to brown it. When Casimir, the celebrated cook, left the Maison Doree, he went to the Champeaux. At lunch-time the restaurant does a great trade, but by the dinner hour the bustle of the day has ceased, and one dines both leisurely and well. The cellars of the establishment contain some very fine wines. There is a pretty story connected with this restaurant. Champeaux, its founder, as a poor boy came to Paris, starving and without a sou. A kindly restaurateur gave him at daybreak a dish of broken food. When he himself was prosperous and a restaurateur he ordered that all the food left over should each morning at daybreak be given to the hungry poor, and this is still done. The Cafe de la Regence dates back to the year 1718, and it has some very interesting relics of past glories kept as curiosities. It has kept abreast of the c Paris 43 times, and flames with much light outside at night. It has a little room off the cafe with mirrors and panels painted with flowers, and with Caf^ de la leather-covered seats against the walls, Regence, Rue where excellent bourgeois dishes are st- Honore served to its excellent bourgeois clientele. It is an a la carte restaurant. Its prices are moderate. The cafe is in the Rue St. Honore, almost opposite to the Comedie Fran^aise. All the world knows Maxim’s as a rather noisy supping place, where Maxim’s, the ladies are not all of the a upper Rue Royale ten ” ; but comparatively few people know that it is a quiet but not unamusing restaurant at lunch and dinner time, and that its cookery is noticeably good. There are a dozen other restaurants away from the boulevards which deserve a word : sylvain’s, Sylvain’s, for instance, in the Rue 12 Rue Halevy Halevy, which at one time was the chosen supping place of the butterfly ladies, but which now is chiefly celebrated for an excellent brand of old cognac (it has lately changed hands, and M. Jarandon, the new pro- prietor, has smartened up the house and advertises a “symphonic orchestra” and a “terasse exotique”); the big Brasserie Universelle in the Avenue de l’Opera, which gives its clients a choice of fifty hors dl ceuvre ; and the Restaurant de la Rotonde in the Boulevard Hauss- mann — all three have faithful and admiring clienteles.