la Bourse. Its dining-room is a winter garden, with
trees, palms, hanging baskets, a fountain, and an
abundance of flowers as decorations. It was at the
Champeaux that the Chateaubriand was invented, and
the cuisine has always been of the best. I need
hardly pause to tell my readers what a real Chateau-
briand is, but I find that even in Paris any thick
steak is called by that name. The real Chateaubriand
was invented for the great man of that name by the
first Champeaux. It is a steak of great thickness
with two thin slices of rump-steak tied above and
below it. These slices are burned in the cooking
and are thrown away, the steak done-through being
passed over a bright fire before being served, to brown
it. When Casimir, the celebrated cook, left the
Maison Doree, he went to the Champeaux. At
lunch-time the restaurant does a great trade, but by
the dinner hour the bustle of the day has ceased, and
one dines both leisurely and well. The cellars of the
establishment contain some very fine wines. There
is a pretty story connected with this restaurant.
Champeaux, its founder, as a poor boy came to Paris,
starving and without a sou. A kindly restaurateur
gave him at daybreak a dish of broken food. When
he himself was prosperous and a restaurateur he
ordered that all the food left over should each morning
at daybreak be given to the hungry poor, and this is
still done.
The Cafe de la Regence dates back to the year
1718, and it has some very interesting relics of past
glories kept as curiosities. It has kept abreast of the
c Paris 43
times, and flames with much light outside at night.
It has a little room off the cafe with mirrors and
panels painted with flowers, and with Caf^ de la
leather-covered seats against the walls, Regence, Rue
where excellent bourgeois dishes are st- Honore
served to its excellent bourgeois clientele. It is an
a la carte restaurant. Its prices are moderate. The
cafe is in the Rue St. Honore, almost opposite to the
Comedie Fran^aise. All the world knows Maxim’s
as a rather noisy supping place, where Maxim’s,
the ladies are not all of the a upper Rue Royale
ten ” ; but comparatively few people know that it is
a quiet but not unamusing restaurant at lunch and
dinner time, and that its cookery is noticeably good.
There are a dozen other restaurants away from
the boulevards which deserve a word : sylvain’s,
Sylvain’s, for instance, in the Rue 12 Rue Halevy
Halevy, which at one time was the chosen supping
place of the butterfly ladies, but which now is chiefly
celebrated for an excellent brand of old cognac (it has
lately changed hands, and M. Jarandon, the new pro-
prietor, has smartened up the house and advertises a
“symphonic orchestra” and a “terasse exotique”); the
big Brasserie Universelle in the Avenue de l’Opera,
which gives its clients a choice of fifty hors dl ceuvre ; and
the Restaurant de la Rotonde in the Boulevard Hauss-
mann — all three have faithful and admiring clienteles.
Page 26
Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
la Bourse. Its dining-room is a winter garden, with trees, palms, hanging baskets, a fountain, and an abundance of flowers as decorations. It was at the Champeaux that the Chateaubriand was invented, and the cuisine has always been of the best. I need hardly pause to tell my readers what a real Chateaubriand is, but I find that even in Paris any thick steak is called by that name. The real Chateaubriand was invented for the great man of that name by the first Champeaux. It is a steak of great thickness with two thin slices of rump-steak tied above and below it. These slices are burned in the cooking and are thrown away, the steak done-through being passed over a bright fire before being served, to brown it. When Casimir, the celebrated cook, left the Maison Doree, he went to the Champeaux. At lunch-time the restaurant does a great trade, but by the dinner hour the bustle of the day has ceased, and one dines both leisurely and well. The cellars of the establishment contain some very fine wines. There is a pretty story connected with this restaurant. Champeaux, its founder, as a poor boy came to Paris, starving and without a sou. A kindly restaurateur gave him at daybreak a dish of broken food. When he himself was prosperous and a restaurateur he ordered that all the food left over should each morning at daybreak be given to the hungry poor, and this is still done.
The Cafe de la Regence dates back to the year 1718, and it has some very interesting relics of past glories kept as curiosities. It has kept abreast of the
c Paris 43
times, and flames with much light outside at night. It has a little room off the cafe with mirrors and panels painted with flowers, and with Café de la leather-covered seats against the walls, Regence, Rue where excellent bourgeois dishes are st- Honore served to its excellent bourgeois clientele. It is an a la carte restaurant. Its prices are moderate. The cafe is in the Rue St. Honore, almost opposite to the Comédie Française. All the world knows Maxim’s as a rather noisy supping place, where Maxim’s, the ladies are not all of the a upper Rue Royale ten ” ; but comparatively few people know that it is a quiet but not unamusing restaurant at lunch and dinner time, and that its cookery is noticeably good.
There are a dozen other restaurants away from the boulevards which deserve a word : sylvain’s, Sylvain’s, for instance, in the Rue 12 Rue Halevy Halevy, which at one time was the chosen supping place of the butterfly ladies, but which now is chiefly celebrated for an excellent brand of old cognac (it has lately changed hands, and M. Jarandon, the new proprietor, has smartened up the house and advertises a “symphonic orchestra” and a “terasse exotique”); the big Brasserie Universelle in the Avenue de l’Opera, which gives its clients a choice of fifty hors d'œuvre ; and the Restaurant de la Rotonde in the Boulevard Haussmann — all three have faithful and admiring clienteles.