FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 28

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
At the restaurant of the Place Blanche many of the well-known artists breakfast and dine, and the onion soup there is celebrated. Next door to 0af(S de laPlace the Boite au Fursy, the little theatre Blanche, Place where Fursy sings his Chansons Rosses Blanclle and the Poetes Chanteurs and a pretty actress or two play impudent little revues, is a restaurant which, I believe, is owned by the directors of the Treteau de Bal Tabarin, where there are pictures Tabarin, Rue of nymphs on the walls, and where a Pi§'alle simple dinner can be eaten with amusing and Bohemian surroundings. The Bohemianism of the place becomes overwhelming later in the evening. All the restaurants on the heights are not Bohemian : some of them are quite sedate. I used at one time to dine occasionally at Le Pere Lathuille, a comfort- able old-fashioned restaurant which possessed a pare, 4 6 Id he Gourmet's Guide to Europe which was really only a garden, but which had an historic interest, for it was there that the Count de Neipperg used to meet Queen Marie Louise. Le Pere, however, has disappeared, the ■ restaurant and pare having been obliterated by a huge music- hall. A pleasant old-world restaurant is Au Pere Pere Boivin, Boivin, in the Avenue de Clichy. Its 6 Avenue Clichy service is somewhat slow, but its cookery is good and its prices moderate. It has a good cellar of red wines, and it has a larger selection of the wines of Touraine and Anjou than is to be found elsewhere in Paris. Its Burgundy is excellent and cheap, and its old brandy is excellent and rather expensive. Various plats of veal kidneys are its specialties, and are excellent. The downstairs room is rather small, but there is a large room above. In this room on Saturday evening are often to be found wedding parties of the tradespeople of the quarter, and the feasts are amusing to watch. Le Pere Boivin is about fifty yards from the Clichy station of the Metro. Under the theatre and dancing-room of the Moulin Rouge, a place of entertainment I need not describe, Moulin Rouge, is a supper and dining hall opened in Place Blanche the early days of 1908 with a great flourish of trumpets. Its decorations are gorgeous, and it has several orchestras. When last I saw this hall it had been converted, permanently or as a temporary measure I know not, into a ball-room. Foreign Restaurants and Oyster Bars If the foreigner in Paris wishes to eat the dishes or his own country, Lutetia shrugs her pretty shoulders and permits him to do so. Jews, Turks, infidels, and all the outlanders, can dine on food cooked after their Paris 47 national manners, if they will. If an American longs for dry hash and corn cakes he will find them at Leon Caquet’s Restaurant in the Rue Daunou. Leon has succeeded Vian, who catered Lion’s, 22 Rue with wonderful. success for the English- Daunou speaking colony during the dark days of the siege. The Americans who always cluster in the morning in and round the Banking Agency at the corner of the street as often as not go over to Leon’s for breakfast, and the proprietor, who is a good business man, always has two or three typical American dishes ready on his bill of fare. Leon’s is a small restaurant, one little room on the ground floor and another in the entresol , but I should fancy that it must be a gold mine to its owner.