FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 117

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
The Ferry House at Eulenhorst, which juts out into the Aussen Alster, the bigger of the two lakes, The Ferry House, is some little distance from the central Eulenhorst part of the town, and a pleasant way of reaching it is by steamer. On a sunny afternoon a large contingent of all Hamburg goes out there to drink coffee. A long white restaurant with a glassed-in balcony provides shelter should a shower of rain come on, and there are innumerable tables and chairs under the trees on the little promontory, all of which are occupied in fine weather. The Pavilion is made gay with boxes of bright flowers, and, like the Alster Pavilion, it is patronised by bright and merry people. At the Zoological Gardens there are two restaurants, with balconies overlooking the beer garden, in which a military band plays. German Towns 213 The Rathskeller of Hamburg is in the modern Rathhaus, and is finely decorated in “ Altdeutsch ” : style, with frescoes and paintings by well-known artists. The Kaiser Keller is below Kempinski’s, on a level with the water. The oyster cellars of Hamburg are noted for their excellent lunches. Bouillon, cutlets, steaks, caviare, lachs, and other viands are served, and English “ porter,” generally Combe’s Stout, is much drunk. Another British production, “ Chester ” cheese, which is red Cheshire, is much in demand. At supper in these cellars, and also in Berlin, caviare is much in demand, the small Baltic variety, not the Russian, which is lighter in colour and larger in grain. A pot of it, large or small, according to the number of supperers, is put on the table in a bowl of crushed ice, and your Hamburger, who is a good judge of victuals ; as he is of drink, makes his supper of it. There is a British Club in Hamburg at 42 Grosse Bleichen, but of it I only know the particulars set down in Mr. Austen Teigh’s Clubs , that it is for British subjects, and that the yearly subscription is £h I os. AFTER DINNER My experience of the performances at the higher- class theatres of Hamburg is nil, for my visits to the port have always been paid in summer, when the Stadt Theater, the big house for opera and comedy, the Schauspiel, and the Thalia, have been closed ; but I have heard Austrian operettas well sung at the Carl Schultze, and have passed quite amusing evenings, spending a half-hour here and a half-hour there in the various music halls and shows in the amusement quarter of St. Pauli. Hagenbach’s Menagerie is open all the year round, and so are most of the large variety houses. 2i4 7/^ Gourmet's Guide to Europe Kiel Seebade-Anstalt The hotels and restaurants of Kiel are neither numerous nor recherche , and, with the exception of the sailors’ rendezvous, are mostly closed during the winter. The Seebade-Anstalt is about the best restaurant ; it was built by Herr Krupp and is managed by an Englishman. Above it are the fine rooms of the Imperial Yacht Club. These, during the regatta week, which generally takes place at the end of June, are crowded with yachtsmen of all nationalities, to whom the Kaiser dispenses most gracious hospitality. When the extensive anchorage, surrounded by green and wooded hills, is full of every description of yacht, foremost among which is the Hohen%ollern and many German battleships, it forms a scene at once impressive and gay. The Hotel Germania has a very fair restaurant attached to it.