FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 118

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
The Rathskeller is well conducted, and was built by the municipal authorities. The Weinstuben, Paul Fritz, is a good refreshment place, but is mostly frequented by the students and officers. The Seegarten is a pretty little place overlooking the harbour, where German beer is the principal article of commerce. At the Miinchener Btirgerbrau the beer is good but the surroundings dismal. There is a nine-hole golf course at Kitzeberg. ¥11 BERLIN The Classic Restaurants — The Hotel Restaurants— Restaurants of the People — Military Restaurants — Cafes, Cabarets, and Bars — Open-air Restaurants — Clubs. Berlin is plentifully supplied with restaurants, for both the Kaiser and the Berlin Municipality give every encouragement to enterprising hotel-keepers and restaurateurs who build up-to-date restaurants. Every good German is anxious that Berlin should rival Paris as a city of pleasure and amusement, and the old staid Prussian capital has now become one of the most go-ahead cities in the world. Its small theatres and music-halls and cabarets are very lively, all its new restaurants are tremendously gorgeous, and Berlin now keeps hours which even Paris would con- sider late. The feeding in Berlin is in rather a mixed state, and all the restaurants which cater both for the Berliners and for the strangers who are within the city gates are compelled to serve meals all day and nearly all night long. Their German clients, after the coffee and rolls they have eaten very early in the morning, are ready for a “ snack ” of some kind or another and a glass of wine or a tumbler of beer at about ii a.m. This enables them to postpone their mid-day meal till 2 o’clock, and lunch often fades like a dissolving view into afternoon tea, for Berlin has adopted with enthusiasm the English 5 o’clock meal. 215 1\ 6 'The Gourmet's Guide to Europe Supper is the next and last meal a German requires, and this has to be ready for him when he comes back from his business, or from a theatre, or a concert, and is generally an a la carte meal. The American or Briton so far concedes to the ways of the Continent as to eat rolls and drink coffee as his first meal, but he wants his lunch at i p.m., and likes to dine before he goes to a theatre. At all the#new restaurants attached to hotels, both sets of clients are conscientiously catered for. The Classic Restaurants Though Berlin has no restaurants which exactly correspond to the Cafe Anglais and Voisin’s in Paris, there have always been some good, quiet restaurants where the cookery has been German, but not too ferociously Teutonic, where the service has been quiet, and which have had the dignity which is part of the atmosphere of a classic restaurant in any Borchardt’s capital. Borchardt’s, in the Franzosis- Franzosischer- cherstrasse, I should take to be the strasse typical good old-fashioned Berlin res-