FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 116

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Artischoken sauce hollandaise. Salat braisirt mit jungen Erbsen. Engl. Sellerie mit Mark. Junge Flageolets a la Maitre. Spanishe Pfeflerschoten farcirt. German ‘Towns 21 1 Junge Ente (duckling). Rebhuhn (partridge). Junge Puter. Escarolle-Salat mit Tomaten. Erd-beer-Eiscreme panache Fruchttorte. Kase. Though I regret the passing of the old Pfordte’s, with its cosiness and its plenitude of dishes, and its feeling that the master’s eye was on everything, I must bear witness to the brightness and smartness and good cookery and good service of the new Pfordte’s in the Atlantic. Another hotel restaurant quite of the first class is that attached to the Esplanade Hotel, the great hotel owned by the same company as the Carlton of London, and the restaurant Sp 6 of which is modelled on the same lines as the famous restaurant in Pall Mall. The Esplanade Hotel is close to the Botanical Gardens. Kempinski’s on the Jungfernstieg is a typical German restaurant of a good class. On the ground floor is an American bar, screened off Kempinski’s, from the hall, in which are many cane 24 Jungfernstieg- easy chairs with bright pink cushions. On the first floor is a great room with a glassed-in balcony, over- looking the Kleine Alster, one of the waterways of this city of canals. The woodwork of this great room is mahogany, and the pillars are of green marble. There is a long list of dishes on the card of the day at Kempinski’s, the highest priced of these being 1 mark 50 heller, while the soups and the vegetable dishes are priced in our money at fourpence. Special dishes, especially dishes of crab when in season, are in the biggest print. From 11.30 till 3 a luncheon of four courses is ready, and costs 2 marks, and a dinner of six courses is to be obtained from 3 p.m. to 8 p.m., and costs 3 marks. As I dined late at 212 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe Kempinski’s, I did not risk a dinner which must have been partially prepared for some hours, and dined quite well a la carte. The Alster Pavilion, looking on to the smaller of the two lakes, the Binnen Alster, is a cafe more than Alster Pavilion, a restaurant. It has two great semi- Jungfernstieg- circles of windows overlooking the lake, and its red window-boxes, its red and green chairs, its little trees on the flat roof, its blue and white tiles and its gilding, make it as bright as a new penny piece. A legion of pigeons live on the roof, and come down to pick up the crumbs which are thrown to them from the people who sit at the tables. There is food of a simple kind to be obtained at this bright cafe and wine and beer house, and the pot of caviare which formed the basis of a supper I ate there was quite good. Its balconies and the space before its doors seem always to be filled by a good-natured crowd of merry-makers ; there is music there at all hours, and it plays quite an important part in the life of Hamburg.