A guide to modern cookery

Remarks Relative to the Making of Brown Stock.—Instead of stringing the meat after having boned it, if time presses, it may be cut into large cubes before browning. In this case one hour and a half would suffice to cook it and to extract all its juice. Whether brown or white, stock should never be salted, because it is never served in its original state. It is either reduced in order to make glazes or sauces—in which case the concentration answers the purpose of seasoning—or else it is used to cook meat which must be salted before being cooked, and which, therefore, imparts the necessary salt to its surrounding liquor. Brown stock ought to be the colour of fine burnt amber, and it must be transparent. It is used in making meat-glazes after reduction, also to moisten meat for braising and to prepare brown sauces. 8—BROWN GAME STOCK There is no difference between the game consommés and game stock, or, otherwise stated, ordinary game consommé and brown game stock are one and the same thing. The distinction lies in the ultimate use of this preparation; it is clarified, as we have shown (Formula 5), if it be intended for a clear soup, and it is used in its original state if it is to be used for a thick game soup, for a sauce, or for reducing. 9—BROWN VEAL STOCK Brown veal stock requires the same quantities of shin and trimmings of veal as white veal stock (Formula 10). The time allowed for cooking is, however, a little shorter, and this operation may be completed within eight hours. This stock is mostly used as the liquor for poultry and poêled game, while it may also serve in the preparation of thickened veal stock. Being quite neutral in taste, it lends itself to all purposes, and readily takes up the aroma of the meat with which it may happen to be combined. It is admirably suited to the poaching of quails, and nothing can supplant it in this particular. 10—WHITE VEAL STOCK, AND POULTRY STOCK Quantities for making Four Quarts. 8 Ibs. of shin of veal, or lean and 54 quarts of cold water. fresh veal trimmings. 4 oz. of leeks strung with a stick 1 or 2 fowls’ carcases, raw if they of celery. are handy. 1 faggot, including 1 oz. of 12 oz. of carrots. parsley, 1 bay leaf, and a 6 oz. of onions stuck with a clove. small sprig of thyme. Preparation.—Bone the shins, string the meat, break up the bones as small as possible, and put them in a stewpan with the water. Place on an open fire, allow to boil, skim carefully, and then move to a side of the fire to cook very gently for five hours. At the end of this time put the stock into another stewpan, add the meat and the vegetables, add water, if necessary, to keep the quantity of liquid at five quarts, let it boil, and allow it to cook slowly for another three hours, after which remove all grease from the stock, pass the latter through a fine strainer or a colander, and put it aside until wanted. Remarks upon White Stock.—One should contrive to make this stock as gelatinous as possible. It is therefore an indispensable measure that the bones be well broken up and cooked for at least eight hours. Veal never yields such clear stock as beef; nevertheless, the consommé obtained from veal should not be turbid. It must, on the contrary, be kept as clear and as white as possible. Poultry Stock is made by adding two old fowls to the above veal stock, and these should be put into the liquor with the meat. FisH Stock 11—WHITE FISH STOCK Quantities for making Four Quarts. 4 lbs. of trimmings and bones of 2 oz. of parsley, root or stalks. sole or whiting. ¼ bottle of white wine. 4 lb. of sliced, blanched onions.