The consommés whose formule I have just given are in- tended more particularly for dinners. They are always finished off by some kind of garnish, which, besides lending them an additional touch of flavour, gives them their special and definite character when they are served up in the diner’s plate. But the case is otherwise with the consommés served for suppers. These, being only served in cups, either hot or cold, do not allow of any garnishing, since they are to be drunk at table. They must therefore be perfect in themselves, delicate, and quite clear. These special consommés are made in a similar manner to the others, though it is needful to slightly increase the quantity of meat used for the clarification, and to add to that clarification the particular flavour mentioned on the menu—to wit, a few stalks of celery, if the consommé is a celery one; a small quantity of curry, if the consommé is given as ‘‘ a I’Indienne ’’; or a few old roast partridges if it is to be termed “‘ Consommé au fumet de perdreau ’’; and so on. The means by which one may vary the aroma of con- sommeés are legion, but it is highly important, what aroma soever be used, that the latter be not too pronounced. It ought only to lend a distinctive and, at the same time, subtle finish to the consommé, which, besides sharpening the latter, should increase its succulence. When the consommé is served cold it ought to have the qualities of an extremely light and easily-melting jelly, barely firm; but when it is too liquid, it rarely gives that sensation of perfection and succulence to the palate of the consumer which the latter expects. When too firm and too gelatinous it is positively disagreeable; therefore, if it is to be relished, it should be just right in respect of consistency. FONDS DE CUISINE 9 7—BROWN STOCK OR ‘‘ESTOUFFADE”’ Quantities for making Four Quarts. 4 Ibs. of shin of beef (fiesh and ? ib. of minced carrots, browned bone). in butter. 4 Ibs. of shin of veal (flesh and # lb. of minced onions, browned bone). in butter. 4 Ib. of lean, raw ham. 1 faggot, containing a little pars- 4 Ib. of fresh pork rind, rinsed ley, a stick of celery, a small in tepid water. sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf. Preparation.—Bone and string the meat, and keep it in readiness for the morrow. Break the bones as finely as pos- sible, and, after having besprinkled’ them with a little stock-fat, brown them in an oven; also stir them repeatedly. When they are slightly browned, put them in a conveniently large sauce- pan with the carrots, the onions, and the faggot. Add five quarts of cold water, and put the saucepan on an open fire to boil. As soon as the boil is reached skim carefully; wipe the edge of the saucepan; put the lid half on, and allow the stock to cook gently for twelve hours; then roughly remove the fat; pass the liquid through a sieve, and let it cool: This being done, put the meat in a saucepan just large enough to hold it. Brown it a little in some stock-fat, and clear it entirely of the latter. Add half a pint of the prepared stock, cover the saucepan, and let the meat simmer on the side of the fire until the stock is almost entirely reduced. Mean- while the meat should have been repeatedly turned, that it may be equally affected throughout. Now pour the remainder of the stock, prepared from bones, into the saucepan, bring the whole to the boil, and then move the saucepan to a corner of the fire for the boiling to continue very slowly and regularly with the lid off. As soon as the meat is well cooked the fat should be reimnoved from the stock, and the latter should be strained or rubbed through a sieve, after which it should be put aside to be used when required.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

The consommés whose formule I have just given are intended more particularly for dinners. They are always finished off by some kind of garnish, which, besides lending them an additional touch of flavour, gives them their special and definite character when they are served up in the diner’s plate. But the case is otherwise with the consommés served for suppers. These, being only served in cups, either hot or cold, do not allow of any garnishing, since they are to be drunk at table. They must therefore be perfect in themselves, delicate, and quite clear. These special consommés are made in a similar manner to the others, though it is needful to slightly increase the quantity of meat used for the clarification, and to add to that clarification the particular flavour mentioned on the menu—to wit, a few stalks of celery, if the consommé is a celery one; a small quantity of curry, if the consommé is given as ‘‘ a I’Indienne ’’; or a few old roast partridges if it is to be termed “‘ Consommé au fumet de perdreau ’’; and so on. The means by which one may vary the aroma of consommeés are legion, but it is highly important, what aroma soever be used, that the latter be not too pronounced. It ought only to lend a distinctive and, at the same time, subtle finish to the consommé, which, besides sharpening the latter, should increase its succulence. When the consommé is served cold it ought to have the qualities of an extremely light and easily-melting jelly, barely firm; but when it is too liquid, it rarely gives that sensation of perfection and succulence to the palate of the consumer which the latter expects. When too firm and too gelatinous it is positively disagreeable; therefore, if it is to be relished, it should be just right in respect of consistency. 7—BROWN STOCK OR ‘‘ESTOUFFADE”’ Quantities for making Four Quarts. 4 Ibs. of shin of beef (fiesh and ? ib. of minced carrots, browned bone). in butter. 4 Ibs. of shin of veal (flesh and # lb. of minced onions, browned bone). in butter. 4 Ib. of lean, raw ham. 1 faggot, containing a little pars- 4 Ib. of fresh pork rind, rinsed ley, a stick of celery, a small in tepid water. sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf. Preparation.—Bone and string the meat, and keep it in readiness for the morrow. Break the bones as finely as possible, and, after having besprinkled them with a little stock-fat, brown them in an oven; also stir them repeatedly. When they are slightly browned, put them in a conveniently large saucepan with the carrots, the onions, and the faggot. Add five quarts of cold water, and put the saucepan on an open fire to boil. As soon as the boil is reached skim carefully; wipe the edge of the saucepan; put the lid half on, and allow the stock to cook gently for twelve hours; then roughly remove the fat; pass the liquid through a sieve, and let it cool: This being done, put the meat in a saucepan just large enough to hold it. Brown it a little in some stock-fat, and clear it entirely of the latter. Add half a pint of the prepared stock, cover the saucepan, and let the meat simmer on the side of the fire until the stock is almost entirely reduced. Meanwhile the meat should have been repeatedly turned, that it may be equally affected throughout. Now pour the remainder of the stock, prepared from bones, into the saucepan, bring the whole to the boil, and then move the saucepan to a corner of the fire for the boiling to continue very slowly and regularly with the lid off. As soon as the meat is well cooked the fat should be reimnoved from the stock, and the latter should be strained or rubbed through a sieve, after which it should be put aside to be used when required.

A guide to modern cookery