FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 423

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Croquettes: French, minced meat, coated with eggs and bread- crumb, and fried crisp ; almost the same as rissoles, but these latter bear their name from the rice which ought to be contained in them. Croustades: French, fanciful ornamental pie-cases, carved out of breadcrumb, and fried brown in fat. Croutons: French, sippets of bread, of various sizes and shapes, fried in butter, ami used to garnish salmis, fricassees, dresseil vegetables, etc., or to accompany soups, particularly of purees; also absurdly used for pieces of jelh- placed round cold entrdes (croiitonner, Gouffe, loc. cil., p. 351). Curry : a strongh -.spiced ragoiit; is derived from Old Knglish cury. See ‘ I'orms of Cury,’ where iwocury, or curry, />«rc'fl'<r/aregiven, forte and douce. F'rom these powders highly- spiced (lishes derived their appellation. This roll of ancient cookery was coni- ])iled by the master cooks of King Richard II., about 1390, and jniblished by Robert Warner in 1791. Curries are therefore indigenous in Kngland, and by no means an imjiortation from Ilindostan. The F'rench speak of the supposed Indian dish as Nari a I' Indienne. Custard : Fhiglish, aeoniiiosition of milk and eggs mainly, .sweetened and flavoured, jmrboifed. Once spelled custade, a corruption of F'rench a jiic with a crust, from Old French croustadc, from hatiii cruslatus, cnisletl (‘ Cliamber.s’ FHymological Dic- tionary’). Custard is also a name sonielinies given (in hondon) .4y a iiecnliar tropical fruit. Cnsiara apples = name jirojier of the apjiles; hence the seller ol costards (/.<■., apjjles) was called a costard-monger, now degenerated to costermonger. 670 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY Cutlet : ICnglish corruption of French cdtddte, a small rib, or part of a rib. Cyder: Soutli-west Kiifrlisli name of apple zuiuc, which latter name prevails in the Midland Counties ; from zythos, Greek, an alcoholic liquid prepared by fermentation {q.v.). ‘Chambers’ Etymological Dictionar}'’ spells dder, French ddre, and derives it from sicera, genitive ce, intoxicating liquor, from the Greek But cyder, at least, when young, is the least intoxicating of common fer- mented drinks, and therefore least liable to receive as specific name a general appellation. C}'der is mostl}- made from apples which are not eatable in substance. Its production is a German invention, according to Herat and Delems, ‘Diet. Mat. Med.’ Its Latin name is pomaceum, made at a time when potnum, originally signifying ever}' kind of fruit — cherry, fig, date, nut, even truffle and grape — had been specialized for malum (of Greek origin), apple ; but this name included in its turn pomegranates, peaches, oranges of all kinds, lemons (pomecitrons), and quinces. D Darioles : French, pastry of entremets, constructed like English cheese-cakes. Darn: English substantive, a slice or cutlet, e.g., a transverse chop of fish, such as salmon or cod. The term is in ‘ Smith and Hamil- ton’s English-French Dictionary,’ and was used freely by cooks of the last century. English form of the French darne, substantive feminine, a slice (of some fishes only, but varieties not specified).