FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 422

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Codlin, Codling, or Coddling : a good hard kind of cooking apple ; diminutive of cod—s. pod containing seeds. Some surmise a con- nection with to coddle, to pamper, or to parboil, or soften 133- boiling water, or sa3' that an apple of aii3' kind thus softened (‘ intenerated ’) would be a codling. These apples are deprived of their peel 011I3' after having been parboiled in water, and are preserved in that state, and thus receive a treatment differing from that of other apples. Codled cream, or codlin cream, i.e., apple puree mixed with cream (apple fool), fits the meaning of cream mixed with codlin apples. Codling is also spelled quodling, and, according to Jeaffreson {toe. cit., ii. 48), a recipe for cooking such is given 133- Robert Ma3'. Compote : French, cooked fruit, probabh- originalh- mixed fruit, or fruit preserved in .S3Tup ; also used, e.g., 133- author of ‘ Dons de Comus,’ to designate savour3- dishes of pigeons, cpiails, and larks, mixed with pease or mu.shrooms. Consomme : French, strong broth obtained 133- boiling meat and vegetables, and concentrating the extract to slight browning or caranielization, used for soups and sauces. La Chapelle has a more restricted meaning. [The present habit of London cooks to call their dish-water soups ‘consommes’ .shouhl be condemned l33' ever3' lover of honest fare.] Contiser: French, the tattooing or inla3’ing of fillets of anv kind with .small slices of truffles, red tongue, etc., so as to produce au ornamental mosaic. From name proper Conti, hence a la Conti, or contisi, rendered in English as conlisated. When the pieces inserted are more nail-shaped, the operation is termed clontcr, to nail. Corned pork ; abbreviation of acorned pork, or ]3ork which has been fed upon acorns. Transferred to salt beef, which is absurdly called corned, or even corn beef. Corner le diner: French, to blow the horn calling the messmates to dinner. niCriONARY OF CULINARY TERMS 669 Cote ; French, a rib, hence diininiitive cdtelctte, a small rib, or part of a rib; a piece of meat with a portion of a rib attaclied, of smaller animals, calves, and sheep. The Anglicised form of the word is cutlet. Coulis : F'rench, a strong, thick, savoury sauce; German, Gniuci- saucc, i.e., bottom sauce below the fat; lean sauce of a braise or blanc. Coulis was then used to denote asoup, and Anglicized into cullis. In ‘ Dons de Comns’ coulis has three allied but distinct meanings: (i) that of a liaison of flour heated in fat, there- fore =ronx (toe. cil., pp. 16, 24, 28); (2) purees of peas and lentils, etc. ; (3) thick soups and sauces. The word is now obsolete both in France and I^ngland, but persists in German writings of cooks who have inherited classical manuscripts. Crambambuli : a punch made from fired whisk}' and sugar fused in the flame. Perhaps derived with the aid of bainbalein, the Greek verb to stammer, as the drink is very intoxicating. Crapaudine : French, a grating, gridiron ; hence mettre a la crapau- dine, to grill, e.g., pigeons. Crepine : F'rench, kell, caul ; hence crepinette, flat sausage wrapped in caul (diction ar}-), hence plural crcpinelles, a ragout made with hashed meat placed in pieces of crepine. Croquantes ; French, a bright mixture of fruit and boiled sugar. Croquants : French, confections giving the sound of crunching or cracking between the teeth.