FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 379 · 1 recipe record on this page

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
have properties which differ somewhat from those of the curds and cheese produced from sweet milk by rennet. When milk is effervescent as well as acidulous, the yeast plant is present, besides the lactic acid plant, and produces some alcohol and carbonic acid, also from sugar of milk. This double fermentation is produced regularly in mare’s milk, in the Kirghese steppes, and results in the production of koumiss. Sour milk is an agreeable, easily digestible, nutritious preparation ; it should be well stirred before use, and if not very rich receive an addition of cream ; its taste is heightened by some sugar and cinnamon 2>ou'der ; grated breadcrumb, or dice of bread, may be added to give it body. In countries where the people during summer eat much sour milk for supper with hot potatoes or bread, variation is produced by SOrR MILK KUMYS 6oi the addition to the milk of heer or elder [apple wine), or some ivhisky or rum. These additions are essentially wholesome. The art of taldug milk from mares, of the steppe, and transforming it into an intoxicating and at the same time nutritious beverage is very old, as we see from the second chapter of the fourth book of Herodotus, where it is fully described. (On this subject the reader should compare the tenth paragraph of the first chapter, supra, Illustration derived from the Case of Kumys.) It is practised as largely as ever, and in our days has been applied to the treatment of the sick, particularly of consumptive x^ersons, with the result of giving them much comfort and prolonging their lives. This is in part due to the fact that mare’s milk greatly resembles human milk in this, that it contains much less albuminous matter and fat, and more sugar of milk, than cow’s milk. The following comparison of the milk of the she-ass with that of the mare, cow, and lastly with human milk, is instructive in all respects : P.\nT.s IN 1,000 OF Milk. The /1«5. nr„..„ Human Female. Cow. Xitrogenized matter, caseine ami salt.s - - - - 19 •21 22 43 Fat - - . - 1-1 -5 H 29 38 8ugar of milk - - - 61 57 6-1 45 Mare’s milk is very suitable for the application here described, because it contains little fat, little caseine, and much lactose or sugar of milk. All these xii’oportions are reversed in cow s milk, which is therefore very unsuitable for the production of such a beverage. Mare s milk is transformed into kumys by two ]p''Occ’sses which run by the side of each other, one being the vinous, the other the laetie aeid fermentation. A part of the caseine is precipitated, another remains in solution. The whole of the milk-sugar is not always decomposed, and it is not always decomposed in equal proportions by both ferments ; 6o2 THE SPIRIT OF COOKE Rl here the art and practice of preparation deteimines the result, the theoretical demand being for a maximum of alcohol and a minimum of acid. This is satisfied by beating or stirring the milk strongly at a temperature of 30° to 35° C. while exposed to the air ; the agitation does not prevent the lactic acid fermentation, advances the alcoholic fermentation, and prevents the butyfic acid fermentation. The latter, when it occurs, makes kumys undrinkable for persons of refined taste. Sour Milk Kumys