FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 378 · 1 recipe record on this page

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Curds and whey belongs to a more rustic mode of life, and is now little patronized by the urban populations. In order to separate the caseine and fat from milk for the production of cheese, an extract by warm water from the inner stomach of the calf {rennet) is added to the warm milk. (The name rennet is applied both to the dried membrane of the stomach CURDS AND WHEY 599 itself and to the active watery extract.) The extract of three-quarters of a square inch of rennet skin will curdle four pints of milk. Curds and lohey may be eaten together, or the curds may be separated from the whey by a strainer, though without pressure, and mixed with cream, to which sugar and some loine or liqueur have been added. Or the curds may be strained off and pressed lightly, and placed and shaped in a mould ; in that shape they are called (jreen cheese, a name which the London cheesemongers, and after them the populace, have corrupted into cream cheese. The brick- shaped white cheeses, bedded on parallel straws, sold under that seductive name in London (in Italy called ricotta), are mostly made of skim milk, sometimes of fresh milk, never of cream. The whey strained from curds is eagerly drunk by pigs ; it is also a wholesome diuretic and nutritive, easily-di- gestible food for man, owing to the dissolved albuminous substance, the sugar of milk, or lactose, and the salts, A ■whey cure in the Alys is a highly salutary proceeding in many cases of chronic illness. Gallina curds and whey is a classical English prepara- tion,* for which the ferment is derived from the tough coat that lines the inside of the proventriculusGallina Curds and Whey, or small (fore) stomach, situated between the crop and gizzard of turkeys and fowls. This ferment is always obtainable, while calf’s rennet is difficult of access. Care should be taken not to infuse it with boiling water, as some recipes ignor- antly advise, but only with warm water at blood-heat or lOO” Fahr. Very hot water destroys the ferment. Gallina curds and whey, says our instructor, when sweetened with sugar, makes a wholesome supper for persons of delicate habits, being entirely free from the disagree- able flavour of rennet. IgiiotUH, ‘ Cul. i'’ain. Mud.,’ p. lO'J. 6oo THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY Soar milk, bonny clobber, German Schliiypcr-milch, is formed when milk is allowed to stand in a cool place ; some cream collects on the top, and a membrane of delicate funyi, a so-called mycelium, forms on the surface. The milk then assumes an acidulous taste, sometimes also is a little effer- vescent, and curdles in the same manner, appai’ently, as by rennet ; in reality, however, the curdling is caused by lactic acid, developed from the sugar of milk by a living ferment, a lovv' fungus, termed the bacillus (little rod) of sour milk. The curdling by rennet, on the other hand, is effected by a non-organized soluble ferment without the production of any acid. While in the whey produced by rennet an albu- minous substance remains in solution (lacto-gjrotein), and can be precipitated by fermented or sour whey — that is, whey the sugar of milk of which has been transformed into lactic acid ; this precipitated lacto-protein is the material from which the Alpine cheese-makers produce the small hard cheeses called herb-cheese (Krauter-kase and Zieger) — in sour milk this lacto-protein falls together with the caseinc, and for this reason curds as well as cheese from sour milk