As to the piites-chauds correspond the diminutive petits pates or patties, so to the ornamental correspond the small croustades, in Italian called crustadini ; they may be made of small sections of bread, or of any of the materials of pastry crusts. Turbans and mazarines are not commonly used in France, so that not even their names are found in modern French works. They are mainly complicated preparations of forcemeat combined with fillets of fotols, hares, rabbits, fish, with Jat livers, or with ox-palates, etc. They are mostly constructed on a basis of baked crust ; over this a layer of forcemeat is spread, and on this the fillets, larded or studded in any way fancy may suggest, are placed and THE SPIRIT OF CdOHERY 580 agglutinated by farce, with which all intervals are filled up. The farce may be boiled or baked as an independent cylinder, or as a houdin in a mould, and then placed upon the basis of the crust. To this cylinder the fillets are applied, and fixed with more forcemeat, or skewers, or string, or paper, or thin slices of bacon. When the prepara- tion has been built up, it is baked in the oven or steamed. We have seen recipes for so-called mazarines which yield mere forcemeat 23uddings (or boudins), steamed in a buttered mould and turned out on a dish ; a cavity left or made in the middle of the forcemeat was to receive the ragout and sauce; the fillets, etc., and crayfish tails were fixed on the battlements of the timball as mere garnishes without any organic connection with it. These preparations do, there- fore, not essentially differ from the forcemeat puddings (entries de farce, as Careme so well named them) described above. They show no specific features, are in many respects inconvenient inversions of the principles which are observed in the preparation of the best entrees in pates, voi-au-vents, timballs, etc., and do not allow of that close association of meat and sauce which constitutes the charm of ragouts and of most other entrees. We therefore judge them much inferior to, the entrees in cases described above, and think that the principal culinary authors were right in omitting to take notice of them. CHAPTEE LII. ICES, FROZEN FRUIT JAMS AND JUICES, FROZEN CUSTARDS, CREAMS, PUDDINGS, AND ORNA- MENTAL ENTREMETS. The use of ice and snow in Southern countries for cooling drinks in hot seasons is of very high antiquity, as can be seen from observations made by Hippocrates and Seneca ICES AND FROZEN J'RERA RATIONS regarding the practice. In parts where these natural pro- ducts were not to be had, porons vessels were in use, which allowed a sufficient evaporation of water from their surface to keep the contents at an agreeably low temperature. Such vessels the Spaniards by a Moorish name call alcar- azas. In the sixteenth century the use of ice for the cooling of drink was yet so little known north of the Alps that the physician of Francis I., King of France, when he attended his master at Nice during the conferences which he there held with the Emperor Charles V. and Pope Paul III., was astonished to see that the wine was cooled with ice fetched from the neighbouring mountains. Ices, properly so called — that is to say, frozen sweet fruit juices and other suitable preparations — became known in France only towards 1660, when a Florentine confectioner of the name of Procope founded a coffee-house at Paris in a street which then bore the na

AI-modernized reading of the original text

As to the piites-chauds correspond the diminutive petits pates or patties, so to the ornamental correspond the small croustades, in Italian called crustadini ; they may be made of small sections of bread, or of any of the materials of pastry crusts. Turbans and mazarines are not commonly used in France, so that not even their names are found in modern French works. They are mainly complicated preparations of forcemeat combined with fillets of fowls, hares, rabbits, fish, with Jat livers, or with ox-palates, etc. They are mostly constructed on a basis of baked crust ; over this a layer of forcemeat is spread, and on this the fillets, larded or studded in any way fancy may suggest, are placed and agglutinated by farce, with which all intervals are filled up. The farce may be boiled or baked as an independent cylinder, or as a houdin in a mould, and then placed upon the basis of the crust. To this cylinder the fillets are applied, and fixed with more forcemeat, or skewers, or string, or paper, or thin slices of bacon. When the preparation has been built up, it is baked in the oven or steamed. We have seen recipes for so-called mazarines which yield mere forcemeat puddings (or boudins), steamed in a buttered mould and turned out on a dish ; a cavity left or made in the middle of the forcemeat was to receive the ragout and sauce; the fillets, etc., and crayfish tails were fixed on the battlements of the timball as mere garnishes without any organic connection with it. These preparations do, therefore, not essentially differ from the forcemeat puddings (entries de farce, as Careme so well named them) described above. They show no specific features, are in many respects inconvenient inversions of the principles which are observed in the preparation of the best entrees in pates, vol-au-vents, timballs, etc., and do not allow of that close association of meat and sauce which constitutes the charm of ragouts and of most other entrees. We therefore judge them much inferior to, the entrees in cases described above, and think that the principal culinary authors were right in omitting to take notice of them. CHAPTER LII. ICES, FROZEN FRUIT JAMS AND JUICES, FROZEN CUSTARDS, CREAMS, PUDDINGS, AND ORNA- MENTAL ENTREMETS. The use of ice and snow in Southern countries for cooling drinks in hot seasons is of very high antiquity, as can be seen from observations made by Hippocrates and Seneca ICES AND FROZEN J'RERA RATIONS regarding the practice. In parts where these natural products were not to be had, porons vessels were in use, which allowed a sufficient evaporation of water from their surface to keep the contents at an agreeably low temperature. Such vessels the Spaniards by a Moorish name call alcarazas. In the sixteenth century the use of ice for the cooling of drink was yet so little known north of the Alps that the physician of Francis I., King of France, when he attended his master at Nice during the conferences which he there held with the Emperor Charles V. and Pope Paul III., was astonished to see that the wine was cooled with ice fetched from the neighbouring mountains. Ices, properly so called — that is to say, frozen sweet fruit juices and other suitable preparations — became known in France only towards 1660, when a Florentine confectioner of the name of Procope founded a coffee-house at Paris in a street which then bore the na

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