sarily have excluded from their fare. At last with the
Chartists went the chartreuse, and its name was misapplied
to a simple pudding of incongruous parts of flesh and
vegetables, which had none of the virtues of the Spanish
olla, though resembling it in its larger features, and which
was, moreover, inconvenient to deal with on the table, in
whatever way its distribution to the diners might be at-
tempted. Chartreuses also have received that eclectic and
tiigbly-mixed form which French cooks like to distinguish
by the words a la Parisiennc. A striking example of this
is the meat entree falsely called Chartreuse d la Parisiennc
en Surprise, as given by Careme. It is throughout calculated
to produce ‘ charming effects,’ of course upon the eye, by
crawfish tails. When he found that the structure ‘ est d’uu
tres bel effet,’ he no doubt thought of his original severe
definition of the grande chartreuse, and added a surprise to
the title in order to have in the programme the astonishment
which it was to be foreseen the absence of all vegetables,
except the mushrooms, must produce in the convivants.
But he added an actual surprise, the result, we hope, of a
lightning pain inflicted by his conscience upon his culinary
genius, in calling this chartreuse an entrde de farce.
The predilections of the Carthusians extended from con-
cretes to abstracts, and from pies ascended to liqueurs ;
this was effected by a process of evolution which passed
through an apple pudding.
The Chartreuse of Apples begins with apple jam, which
German and English cooks affectedly and falsely call
apple marmelade. Then the angelica enters as an orna-
menting incrustation over the yellow, red, aud wdiite
apples✪ Chartreuse of Apples cemented by the jam ; the whole is to be boiled in
a water-bath, and turned out on a plate. Here ended the
apple chartreuse, and apples assumed their ancient rights
and shapes. But the angelica wandered to the brandy
bottle, and chartreuse became a spirit, the Carthusians
BOUDINS, TURBANS AND MAZARINES
579
manufacturers of liqueitrs : ‘ Sic transit gloria Carthusian-
orum.’
The compound chartreuses, as they may be called, de-
scribed in cookery-books, are more numerous than distin-
guished ; they contain a mixture of meat with vegetables.
All kinds of meat, fowl, fish, and vegetable may be used ;
but we should prefer to see every such dish described under
a proper name, and not abused as a farce on a chartreuse.
Boudins of forcemeat, which some erroneously range
under chartreuse, should be considered elsewhere.
By ornamental croustades are meant such structures of
the fried bread class as are not intended to be eaten, but
only to contain edible preparations. Almost every kind of
ragoitt, fricassee, garnish, or sauce in any combination so
as to form an entree, such as are directed to be used in com-
bination with p>dUs-chctuds , vol-au-vents, casseroles of rice,
borders of potato paste, timballs, and any other similar case,
can be used in connection with croustades ; but these re-
ceptacles certainly offer no advantages whatever over the
traditional classical cases. The very mode of making crous-
tades seems calculated to waste a cook’s time upon trum-
peries, and draw his attention away from worthier objects.
Page 365 · 1 recipe record on this page
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
sarily have excluded from their fare. At last with the Chartists went the chartreuse, and its name was misapplied to a simple pudding of incongruous parts of flesh and vegetables, which had none of the virtues of the Spanish olla, though resembling it in its larger features, and which was, moreover, inconvenient to deal with on the table, in whatever way its distribution to the diners might be attempted. Chartreuses also have received that eclectic and tightly-mixed form which French cooks like to distinguish by the words a la Parisiennc. A striking example of this is the meat entree falsely called Chartreuse d la Parisiennc en Surprise, as given by Careme. It is throughout calculated to produce ‘ charming effects,’ of course upon the eye, by crawfish tails. When he found that the structure ‘ est d’uu tres bel effet,’ he no doubt thought of his original severe definition of the grande chartreuse, and added a surprise to the title in order to have in the programme the astonishment which it was to be foreseen the absence of all vegetables, except the mushrooms, must produce in the convivants. But he added an actual surprise, the result, we hope, of a lightning pain inflicted by his conscience upon his culinary genius, in calling this chartreuse an entrde de farce.
The predilections of the Carthusians extended from concretes to abstracts, and from pies ascended to liqueurs ; this was effected by a process of evolution which passed through an apple pudding.
The Chartreuse of Apples begins with apple jam, which German and English cooks affectedly and falsely call apple marmelade. Then the angelica enters as an ornamenting incrustation over the yellow, red, aud white apples cemented by the jam ; the whole is to be boiled in a water-bath, and turned out on a plate. Here ended the apple chartreuse, and apples assumed their ancient rights and shapes. But the angelica wandered to the brandy bottle, and chartreuse became a spirit, the Carthusians
BOUDINS, TURBANS AND MAZARINES
manufacturers of liqueurs : ‘ Sic transit gloria Carthusianorum.’
The compound chartreuses, as they may be called, described in cookery-books, are more numerous than distinguished ; they contain a mixture of meat with vegetables. All kinds of meat, fowl, fish, and vegetable may be used ; but we should prefer to see every such dish described under a proper name, and not abused as a farce on a chartreuse.
Boudins of forcemeat, which some erroneously range under chartreuse, should be considered elsewhere.
By ornamental croustades are meant such structures of the fried bread class as are not intended to be eaten, but only to contain edible preparations. Almost every kind of ragoitt, fricassee, garnish, or sauce in any combination so as to form an entree, such as are directed to be used in combination with pâtés-chauds , vol-au-vents, casseroles of rice, borders of potato paste, timballs, and any other similar case, can be used in connection with croustades ; but these receptacles certainly offer no advantages whatever over the traditional classical cases. The very mode of making croustades seems calculated to waste a cook’s time upon trumperies, and draw his attention away from worthier objects.
Records on this page
Chartreuse of Apples