The gurnet, or gurnard or noud — French grondin — derives its name from the grunting noise it makes by friction of its jowl-bone. The Eomans call it cuculus, from the supposed similarity of its notes to those of this bird. There are several varieties of gurnet, called the gray, red, streaked, yellow, and sapphirine. All of them are good to eat, but the sapphirine is considered better than the rest, which collectively are called pipers. The sapphirine has a very long upper jaw. Its side, or pectoral, fins are on the outside green, and purple underneath ; its sides are red, its belly is white, and its back green. The entire fish, when seen in a clear sea, has a beautiful appearance. Gurnet may be stuffed and baked, or braised, boiled, sauced, egged, crumbed, and baked, or stuffed and boiled, or filleted and fried. It requires a good sauce. RED AND GREY MULLET, JOHN DORY 547 The red mullet, or sur mullet — French rouget or mulet — a sea-fish characterized by a large head and a red skin, abundant on all Mediterranean coasts, is taken in the English Channel, and particularly at Plymouth. The Eomans valued it greatly, and observed its change of colour when it dies. Some modern enthusiasts termed it the woodcock of the sea, as its trail is eatable when suitably cooked. Its flesh is white, firm, short, agreeable, and digestible, and on the plate separates easily into flakes. In the sea, mullets sometimes travel in shoals underneath shoals of mackerel. For cooking, the fish should be only lightly scraped, or not scraped at all ; the gills should then be pulled, when part of the trail will come with them. This is all the eventration that is required. There is a variety of mullet which is reddish-brown, sometimes called the striped mullet. Its flesh is firmer, but nearly as good as that of the perfectly red variety. The mullet prefers a muddy sea-bottom. It is best grilled, and it is not advisable to boil it ever in court bouillon. Anchovy,, or Italian, or espagnole sauce go best with it. It may be filleted, marinaded and fried, filleted and baked, grilled with fine herbs, or grilled in oiled paper. G-ray mullet, graylimj, and whiting pout (the latter, in French, tacaud), should be prepared like red mullet. The John Dory — French Jaune Dove — is excellent when fresh. It is mostly eaten plain-boiled, with lobster or Dutch sauce. It may be stuffed with forcemeat, and braised or baked ; the stuffing should be kept fat, and slightly spiced with tinctures and herbs. Baste the fish, and keep it moist by bacon or oiled paper. Probably owing to the curious appearance of the fish, many fables have been connected with it— such as that it was the fish out of the mouth of which Peter took the tribute-money ; or that the marks on its head were impressed by St. Christopher when he caught one in wading through an arm of the sea. As 548 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY the head is very large and useless as food, only fish of at least a foot in length, and from four to six pounds in weight, should he taken for cooking.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

The gurnet, or gurnard or noud — French grondin — derives its name from the grunting noise it makes by friction of its jowl-bone. The Romans call it cuculus, from the supposed similarity of its notes to those of this bird. There are several varieties of gurnet, called the gray, red, streaked, yellow, and sapphirine. All of them are good to eat, but the sapphirine is considered better than the rest, which collectively are called pipers. The sapphirine has a very long upper jaw. Its side, or pectoral, fins are on the outside green, and purple underneath ; its sides are red, its belly is white, and its back green. The entire fish, when seen in a clear sea, has a beautiful appearance. Gurnet may be stuffed and baked, or braised, boiled, sauced, egged, crumbed, and baked, or stuffed and boiled, or filleted and fried. It requires a good sauce. RED AND GREY MULLET, JOHN DORY The red mullet, or sur mullet — French rouget or mulet — a sea-fish characterized by a large head and a red skin, abundant on all Mediterranean coasts, is taken in the English Channel, and particularly at Plymouth. The Romans valued it greatly, and observed its change of colour when it dies. Some modern enthusiasts termed it the woodcock of the sea, as its trail is eatable when suitably cooked. Its flesh is white, firm, short, agreeable, and digestible, and on the plate separates easily into flakes. In the sea, mullets sometimes travel in shoals underneath shoals of mackerel. For cooking, the fish should be only lightly scraped, or not scraped at all ; the gills should then be pulled, when part of the trail will come with them. This is all the eventration that is required. There is a variety of mullet which is reddish-brown, sometimes called the striped mullet. Its flesh is firmer, but nearly as good as that of the perfectly red variety. The mullet prefers a muddy sea-bottom. It is best grilled, and it is not advisable to boil it ever in court bouillon. Anchovy, or Italian, or espagnole sauce go best with it. It may be filleted, marinaded and fried, filleted and baked, grilled with fine herbs, or grilled in oiled paper. G-ray mullet, graylimj, and whiting pout (the latter, in French, tacaud), should be prepared like red mullet. The John Dory — French Jean Doré — is excellent when fresh. It is mostly eaten plain-boiled, with lobster or Dutch sauce. It may be stuffed with forcemeat, and braised or baked ; the stuffing should be kept fat, and slightly spiced with tinctures and herbs. Baste the fish, and keep it moist by bacon or oiled paper. Probably owing to the curious appearance of the fish, many fables have been connected with it— such as that it was the fish out of the mouth of which Peter took the tribute-money ; or that the marks on its head were impressed by St. Christopher when he caught one in wading through an arm of the sea. As the head is very large and useless as food, only fish of at least a foot in length, and from four to six pounds in weight, should he taken for cooking.

The spirit of cookery