Both require soft water for soaking, and the merely dried hsh must be kept in a solution of potash (carbonate) first, and then for forty-eight hours in a solution of caustic potash — i.e., 0. solution of carbonate (or beech-wood ash) made caustic with milk of lime. When again watered and cleaned, the fish may be parboiled — i e., kept in scalding water until done — but should never be boiled. It requires hroicn fitter, or butter sauce, in the alternative brown aromatic or piquant sauce. Racjotit of Salt Codfish — ^French brandade de morue — much used in Proven9e and Languedoc, at a former period celebrated at Paris, derives its French name from the old French verb brandir, to brandish, fiourish, meaning, in its application to our dish, to stir, agitate, or shake ; for, in order to attain its utmost excellence, it requires much patient stirring of a particular technical kind. The Bran- dade de Morue d la Mode de Montpellier is the most com- plete and accomplished dish of this kind, and can be served as releve of fish at a set dinner. The brandade can also be made with fresh cod, and is then de Gabillaud. Cods' sounds are their sioimmincj bladders, the analogues of isinglass, the bladder of the sturgeon. Cods’ sounds do not, on Ijoiling, dissolve as gelatine ; they are prepared in various ways, and are more an object of fancy than a nutri- tious dish. Haddock is the callarias and galeris of the Eomans, Schellfish of the Germans, aig refin or cglejin of the French. It has a very fine flavour when fresh and in season, which is from November to January for large fish, and from February to May for smaller ones. Some believe a fish weighing from six to seven pounds to be the best size ; but such fish are rare, and still more rare are fish weighing up to twelve pounds. The haddocks of the Loudon retail trade weigh a few pounds only at the outside, and the smaller ones are very disadvantageous food. When in the sea searching for their prey, they follow the young herrings and 35 546 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY sprats, and when feeding on them their flesh is richer than when they are feeding on whitings. They must be eaten quite fresh or cured. When large haddocks are sold in the London market, they are generally called Dublin Bay, but in reality are mostly taken on the coast of Sussex and Hampshire. Haddock deteriorates even more than cod by being kept, so that some gastronomers declare it the poorest fish that swims, with neither the delicacy of the whiting nor the juiciness of the cod. Haddock ie mostly boiled plain, or salted and boiled, or fried, broiled, stuffed, and baked. Salted and dried haddock is not rarely called Findhoni haddock in England, from a promontory in Scotland where this preparation is particularly well made. The word is generally corrupted into Finnon, whence some persons derive the erroneous idea that the fish came from Finland, or that the mode of preparation was Finnish. All the best rules for preparing, dressing, curing, and cooking haddock are Scotch. The French think very little of haddock, so that D.D. and Beauvilliers have not a single recipe for its preparation, and do not even mention it.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Both require soft water for soaking, and the merely dried fish must be kept in a solution of potash (carbonate) first, and then for forty-eight hours in a solution of caustic potash — i.e., 0. solution of carbonate (or beech-wood ash) made caustic with milk of lime. When again watered and cleaned, the fish may be parboiled — i e., kept in scalding water until done — but should never be boiled. It requires brown butter, or butter sauce, in the alternative brown aromatic or piquant sauce. Ragout of Salt Codfish — ^French brandade de morue — much used in Provence and Languedoc, at a former period celebrated at Paris, derives its French name from the old French verb brandir, to brandish, fiourish, meaning, in its application to our dish, to stir, agitate, or shake ; for, in order to attain its utmost excellence, it requires much patient stirring of a particular technical kind. The Brandade de Morue d la Mode de Montpellier is the most complete and accomplished dish of this kind, and can be served as releve of fish at a set dinner. The brandade can also be made with fresh cod, and is then de Gabillaud. Cods' sounds are their swimming bladders, the analogues of isinglass, the bladder of the sturgeon. Cods’ sounds do not, on boiling, dissolve as gelatine ; they are prepared in various ways, and are more an object of fancy than a nutritious dish. Haddock is the callarias and galeros of the Eomans, Schellfish of the Germans, aiglefin or cglefin of the French. It has a very fine flavour when fresh and in season, which is from November to January for large fish, and from February to May for smaller ones. Some believe a fish weighing from six to seven pounds to be the best size ; but such fish are rare, and still more rare are fish weighing up to twelve pounds. The haddocks of the London retail trade weigh a few pounds only at the outside, and the smaller ones are very disadvantageous food. When in the sea searching for their prey, they follow the young herrings and sprats, and when feeding on them their flesh is richer than when they are feeding on whitings. They must be eaten quite fresh or cured. When large haddocks are sold in the London market, they are generally called Dublin Bay, but in reality are mostly taken on the coast of Sussex and Hampshire. Haddock deteriorates even more than cod by being kept, so that some gastronomers declare it the poorest fish that swims, with neither the delicacy of the whiting nor the juiciness of the cod. Haddock is mostly boiled plain, or salted and boiled, or fried, broiled, stuffed, and baked. Salted and dried haddock is not rarely called Findon haddock in England, from a promontory in Scotland where this preparation is particularly well made. The word is generally corrupted into Finnan, whence some persons derive the erroneous idea that the fish came from Finland, or that the mode of preparation was Finnish. All the best rules for preparing, dressing, curing, and cooking haddock are Scotch. The French think very little of haddock, so that D.D. and Beauvilliers have not a single recipe for its preparation, and do not even mention it.

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