t included the phosphorized matters soluble in ether. Caviar is very tasty when eaten spread on the top of fresh (not hot) buttered toast or on buttered bread. It should not be kept long * Beauvuailller.s, loc, cit., ii. 39, writes Kavia. 34 THE SPIRIT OE COOKER)' 1^0 exposed to the air when once the bottle is opened. In case you get it in a little wooden barrel, subdivide it in small bottles, and close them with cork and bladder to exclude the air until the caviar be wanted. The salmon is said to derive its name from its habit of leaping over difficulties, particularly up waterfalls, when ascending streams for the purpose of spawning. It is con- sidered the most delicate of round fish, but varies in quality with the river in which it is taken. It may not be taken during the spawning season, from September 1 to February 1, but it is said to be in season all the year round in some places, e.g., in Loch Carra, Co. Kerry, Ireland. The fish is not called salmon before it attains the age of six years, but is known and sold under different names ; in the first year it is called smolt, in the second sprod, in the third mort, in the fourth fork-tail, in the fifth half -fish. That caught at sea is the best, being fatter and more tender than river fish. The male is the finest-flavoured fish, and has more curd than the female. When it is scored perpendicularly to its long axis with a sharp knife, immediately after removal from the water, and thus put into a condition termed crimped, its flesh remains more solid, and retains the curd, that is to say, the coagulable albumin which, after the fish is boiled, shows itself as milky curd. But when kept a few days it undergoes a change, whereby the curd dis- appears, the meat becomes tender and improved in taste, or, as some enthusiasts say, ‘ produces oily and balsamic par- ticles which render it nutritious and invigorating, diuretic, pectoral, and restorative if it is partaken of too profusely it produces vomiting ; the crimped flesh, on the other hand, is hard and dry, lies heavy on the stomach, and when eaten to relative excess, to which its nutty taste invites, causes indigestion. The earliest Jish comes to London from Ireland and Scotland, and is mostly sold at prices up to 10s. per pound. When out of season the fish has large scarlet. History and prrtar.itioa’s of sau/on 531 purple, and blue spots (bruises) on its sides ; the male has the snout long, the female the snout hooked. When in season the colour is silvery pink gray; the flesh when cooked should be of a dark rose colour ; the flesh of salmon out of season is pale. The supply of salmon in the London market has altered somewhat since 1837, when the earliest, from the Severn, began to arrive in November ; the supply then rose until February, when the full season began, and lasted until the following October. We have seen it alleged that in the early decades of the present century Thames salmon was preferred in the London market, and some gastronomers pretended to be able to distinguish by taste in which reach of the river any given salmon was taken. But we doubt very much whether, after the construction of the more than forty locks of the river, Thames salmon ever were at home in it in any appreciable number.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

t included the phosphorized matters soluble in ether. Caviar is very tasty when eaten spread on the top of fresh (not hot) buttered toast or on buttered bread. It should not be kept long * Beauvilliers, loc, cit., ii. 39, writes Kavia. 330 exposed to the air when once the bottle is opened. In case you get it in a little wooden barrel, subdivide it in small bottles, and close them with cork and bladder to exclude the air until the caviar be wanted. The salmon is said to derive its name from its habit of leaping over difficulties, particularly up waterfalls, when ascending streams for the purpose of spawning. It is considered the most delicate of round fish, but varies in quality with the river in which it is taken. It may not be taken during the spawning season, from September 1 to February 1, but it is said to be in season all the year round in some places, e.g., in Loch Carra, Co. Kerry, Ireland. The fish is not called salmon before it attains the age of six years, but is known and sold under different names ; in the first year it is called smolt, in the second sprod, in the third mort, in the fourth fork-tail, in the fifth half -fish. That caught at sea is the best, being fatter and more tender than river fish. The male is the finest-flavoured fish, and has more curd than the female. When it is scored perpendicularly to its long axis with a sharp knife, immediately after removal from the water, and thus put into a condition termed crimped, its flesh remains more solid, and retains the curd, that is to say, the coagulable albumin which, after the fish is boiled, shows itself as milky curd. But when kept a few days it undergoes a change, whereby the curd disappears, the meat becomes tender and improved in taste, or, as some enthusiasts say, ‘ produces oily and balsamic particles which render it nutritious and invigorating, diuretic, pectoral, and restorative if it is partaken of too profusely it produces vomiting ; the crimped flesh, on the other hand, is hard and dry, lies heavy on the stomach, and when eaten to relative excess, to which its nutty taste invites, causes indigestion. The earliest Jish comes to London from Ireland and Scotland, and is mostly sold at prices up to 10s. per pound. When out of season the fish has large scarlet, History and preparations of salmon 531 purple, and blue spots (bruises) on its sides ; the male has the snout long, the female the snout hooked. When in season the colour is silvery pink gray; the flesh when cooked should be of a dark rose colour ; the flesh of salmon out of season is pale. The supply of salmon in the London market has altered somewhat since 1837, when the earliest, from the Severn, began to arrive in November ; the supply then rose until February, when the full season began, and lasted until the following October. We have seen it alleged that in the early decades of the present century Thames salmon was preferred in the London market, and some gastronomers pretended to be able to distinguish by taste in which reach of the river any given salmon was taken. But we doubt very much whether, after the construction of the more than forty locks of the river, Thames salmon ever were at home in it in any appreciable number.

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