FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 324

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Fish should not be boiled in common water unless there be added to it a quantity of salt equal to a quarter of a pound to the gallon, or an ounce to the quart of water. Whenever sea-water is available for boiling fish, it should be preferred to salted water ; as the Dutch commonly use sea-water, and produce excellently cooked fish, the dish thus pi’oduced by the aid of sea-water is termed by the French d VHol- landaise. When fish is boiled in a mixture of wine, vinegar, roots, rhizomes, and spices, it is called uw court houillon, and when the wine used in this process is in part red, the fish is said to be done au bleu ; there is, however, also fish, e.g., eel, done blue, in the confection of which red wine has no part. When fish is boiled in broth, or in water impreg- nated with vegetables and spices, it is called d la bonne cau, and then the fish may be sent to table in some of the soup-like liquid ; what is called soiichy or souchet is a slice of fish boiled in such broth or water with vegetables. The water should always be, as regards quantity, the minimum with which the purpose can be effected ; excessive quantities of water make the fish tasteless. Opinions differ as regards the initial temperature of the water, between the extremes of cold and boiling, some proposing an uncertain medium noiuxc; of salt-water or sea fish 515 called tepid. Small fish, or relatively small slices of fish, may be thrown into boiling water, just as well as into boiling fat for frying, and become well done ; but larger fish, or more voluminous pieces of fish, should be put into tepid, relatively cold water, so that they may be penetrated by the beat gradually, and cooked equally throughout, and not overdone on the outside before the inside has begun to be set. For the same reason here set forth, the vessel in which fish is to be boiled must in a certain measure be pro- portionate in size to the fish to be boiled, for failing this, the other conditions of success, particularly that concerning the minimum quantity of fluid, cannot be maintained ; the cook should, therefore, have at least two fish-kettles of different sizes at his disposal ; each kettle should be pro- vided with a strainer^ of perforated tin, with supports, by means of which it can be kept raised above the water. For when the fish is done, but its dishing is delayed, it should not be left in the water, but raised out of it on the strainer, and kept merely steanied, with the lid of the kettle on. On account of this difficulty of keeping boiled fish without deterioration, Kitchiner advises cooks, when they have large dinners to prepare for uncertain guests, to fry or stew their fish instead of boiling it ; they would, he Says, get more credit by it, and the carving would be easier.