While in the preparations just described the fillets are fried with the precaution to keep them white, in the case of the Breasts or Fillets of Fowls d I'Indienne, both the fillets and the ham with which they are covered are fried until they have acquired a light brown colour. They are then covered with cspagnole in which finely cut mango has been simmered. These brown fillets also admit of many varia- tions both as to sauce and central ragout. The Legs of Chickens and Foiols, which are left after the excision of the breasts for supremes, may be employed for the production of so-called galantines of legs of foiols, also VARIOUS PREPARATIONS OF FOWLS 487 termed en canetons, or en iMits oignons, or en ballon, all these names being derived from their shape, or, like the first one, from the fact of their containing forcemeat. The legs must be boned without being cut open, and without the skin being injured, by drawing the drumstick, or tibia, with the skewer-like fibula through the round aperture which has to be made to separate the lower end from the skin. Into this hole you insert later a piece of the metatarsal or lowest leg-bone, with the foot or toes attached, all scalded and scraped, and the toes cut short, and tie the skin around it. Fill the cavity from above with a farce, or salpicon of fat liver, truffles and mushrooms, close the cavity by sewing the skin over it ; give to the bag the shape you desire, and braise it in a suitable manner with a 'poele, bacon, and herbs, and send it to table in a suitable sauce — green, Dutch, or crayfish butter. Many variations are on record : firstly, as to the mode of removing the bones, e.g., by longitudinal incision, which is easier than the extraction ; in this case the farce is laid in the cavity, and secured by sewing the skin together; some cooks will have them larded, but this seems too complicated with farce ; they are frequently given with Financihe, Macd- doine, and Jardinihre ragout, and may be accompanied with dressed vegetables, such as lettuce, endive, sorrel, stewed peas, asparagus, or any of their purees. The pinions of fowls may be similarly treated ; when skilfully boned, they furnish little bags which may be stuffed with farce and braised. Fowl in all stages of carving and all its parts may receive many subsidiary preparations, of which we merely give the names : Gold Boast Fowl minced and grilled ; Gold Boast or Boiled Foiol minced an Ciratin ; Gocks’ Gombs and Kidneys in Veloute Sauce ; Aspic of Gocks' Gombs and Kidneys, Fat Livers of Foiols, which are so frequently ruined by being burnt or dried during bad roasting, admit of very delicate 488 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY preparation, such as d la Perig'ueux, or d la Finaiicihrc in a mould, or ati Gratin with farce ; an Matelote, etc. The various forcemeats to be used in or with fowls should if possible be made of fowl or game, rabbit or veal. Boiulins of foiols are queuelles poached in broth. Some of them are again to be filled with a salpicon ; such preparations may be of good taste, but verge towards Apician exaggeration. CHAPTER XLV. PREPARATIONS OF TURKEY, GOOSE, DUCK, AND PIGEON.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

While in the preparations just described the fillets are fried with the precaution to keep them white, in the case of the Breasts or Fillets of Fowls d I'Indienne, both the fillets and the ham with which they are covered are fried until they have acquired a light brown colour. They are then covered with espagnole in which finely cut mango has been simmered. These brown fillets also admit of many variations both as to sauce and central ragout. The Legs of Chickens and Fowls, which are left after the excision of the breasts for supremes, may be employed for the production of so-called galantines of legs of fowls, also VARIOUS PREPARATIONS OF FOWLS termed en canetons, or en petits oignons, or en ballon, all these names being derived from their shape, or, like the first one, from the fact of their containing forcemeat. The legs must be boned without being cut open, and without the skin being injured, by drawing the drumstick, or tibia, with the skewer-like fibula through the round aperture which has to be made to separate the lower end from the skin. Into this hole you insert later a piece of the metatarsal or lowest leg-bone, with the foot or toes attached, all scalded and scraped, and the toes cut short, and tie the skin around it. Fill the cavity from above with a farce, or salpicon of fat liver, truffles and mushrooms, close the cavity by sewing the skin over it ; give to the bag the shape you desire, and braise it in a suitable manner with a 'poele, bacon, and herbs, and send it to table in a suitable sauce — green, Dutch, or crayfish butter. Many variations are on record : firstly, as to the mode of removing the bones, e.g., by longitudinal incision, which is easier than the extraction ; in this case the farce is laid in the cavity, and secured by sewing the skin together; some cooks will have them larded, but this seems too complicated with farce ; they are frequently given with Financière, Macédoine, and Jardiniérè ragout, and may be accompanied with dressed vegetables, such as lettuce, endive, sorrel, stewed peas, asparagus, or any of their purees. The pinions of fowls may be similarly treated ; when skilfully boned, they furnish little bags which may be stuffed with farce and braised. Fowl in all stages of carving and all its parts may receive many subsidiary preparations, of which we merely give the names : Cold Roast Fowl minced and grilled ; Cold Roast or Boiled Fowl minced au Gratin ; Cocks' Combs and Kidneys in Veloute Sauce ; Aspic of Cocks' Combs and Kidneys, Fat Livers of Foiols, which are so frequently ruined by being burnt or dried during bad roasting, admit of very delicate preparation, such as à la Périgueux, or à la Financière in a mould, or au Gratin with farce ; an Matelote, etc. The various forcemeats to be used in or with fowls should if possible be made of fowl or game, rabbit or veal. Boudins of fowls are queuelles poached in broth. Some of them are again to be filled with a salpicon ; such preparations may be of good taste, but verge towards Apician exaggeration. CHAPTER XLV. PREPARATIONS OF TURKEY, GOOSE, DUCK, AND PIGEON.

The spirit of cookery