FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 300

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Basilazzo, one of the Liparian isles north of Sicily, was once reduced to famine by rabbits ; a similar fate befell the Balearic Isles. France swarmed with them, particularly in the south ; and it is related by Beaujeu that a Proven9al gentleman went out in 1551 with several of his vassals and three dogs, and bagged six hundred rabbits in one day. He also relates that on the island near Arles they were so numerous that if a sportsman did not kill a hundred of them in a day he was dissatisfied. In our day the rabbit-pest in Australia and New Zealand is 476 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY sufficiently notorious to illustrate the dangerous character of this animal. But whatever may be the cost to agi-icul- ture of every wild rabbit, the species furnishes a vast amount of food of varying quality, and in such a subdivided state that it is accessible to the small purse. It is calcu- lated in the statistics of hat-makers, who use the skins, or, rather, their hair, for the production of felt, that about twenty millions of rabbits are killed annually in Europe. Their flesh is best for eating during the winter-time ; they should not be too young or too old. The young rabbit is distinguished from the old one by having on its forefeet, below the joint, underneath the skin, a projection of the size of a lentil, which the old rabbit no longer possesses. The wild or warren rabbit is recognised by the red colour of the hair of its feet, and of the part under its tail. This colour is produced in tame rabbits by singeing, and the fraud can be discovered by the burnt smell of the parts. The flesh of the rabbit is mostly lean, and very digestible. Boast Babbit is not in favour in this country, and English culinary works take no notice of it. It is, however, a ready method of preparing a dish quickly, as a rabbit can be roasted in from thirty to forty minutes. To prevent the rabbit from getting dry, cover it with yolk and crumb, and baste it with butter. Gibelotte (old style) means a dish of Stewed Babbit, and nothing else ; the fricassee is better if half an eel be fried with it. Scollops or Kehobs of Babbit may bo fried or stewed, and are yet quicker prepared than the whole rabbit. The gibelotte may be garnished with green peas. Fillets of rabbits may be placed in ragouts, and garnished witli quenelles ; or placed in a casserole with a cullis. The Portuguese braise the rabbit before boning it, and place the meat in a sauce, mostly espagnole, to form fricassee. Fillets of Babbit may be sauced, crumbed, and broiled. Tlie word Prdsolles is used in two senses — as a sul)stan- GIBELOTTE AND BRESOLLES OF RABBIT 477