Venison requires the greatest attention in the kitchen, and the observance of special rules as to ‘ mortification ’ or hanging. Venison from Fallow Deer was once reckoned the choicest meat in use, yet was more often spoiled than any other. The Haunch is the finest joint. Before being hung it requires to have certain lymphatic glands re- moved, which are liable to become starting-points of un- pleasant changes. The Neck is the next best joint, and requires no special treatment. The Shoulder and Breast 474 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY are generally used for pasties, after having been two or three days in the larder. Buck venison is in greatest per- fection from midsummer to Michaelmas, and doe from November to January. A Buck TImmch generally weighs from 20 to 25 lb., and, when covered with oiled paper and paste, will require four and a half hours’ roasting, in cold weather more. When it is done the envelopes are removed, and the outside is dredged over and frothed. It is sent to table with a strong brown gravy and red currant jelly, or a sauce made from it. Of other preparations we have Venison Steaks, plain-broiled ; Venison Fry, of which liver and sweetbread are principal ingredients ; Haunch of Venison, braised, after having been larded ; Scollops or Kehohs, and Civet, Pasty, etc. The joints of Red Deer undergo analogous preparations. Faion of Falloio Deer is treated like lamb, and roasted in quarters, or made into hash and civet. As a dish for show it used also to be roasted entire. The Roe Deer is the most delicately flavoured of the three varieties of venison from deer, and, like Welsh mutton, is very suitable for filleting. It is always finely larded, marinaded, braised, and given in a savoury espagnole sauce. It is also quickly cooked, a loin or saddle requiring three-quarters of an hour’s baking in the oven, or an hour’s braising, to become done. It should not be cooked too long, as prolonged heating makes the meat dry. Cutlets, scollops, haricots, civets, roasts, are all prepared like those of fallow deer. Wiirtemberg is the country where roe deer is yet frequent ; in former times this mountainous country abounded also in red deer ; the royal coat of arms bears a pair of stag’s antlers. HISTORY OF RABBITS 475 CHAPTER XLII. PREPARATIONS OF RABBIT. Not many generations have passed since the time when rabbits were considered .vermin, and their chase beneath the dignity of a sportsman ; but in our time they have been made game, and thus contributed greatly to the emascula- tion of sport. Rabbits are natives of Africa, and have entered Europe through Spain. There are provinces in Germany which have been kept clear of them, but in most parts of the Continent they have domiciled for good, and are with difficulty restrained from injurious multiplication. At the beginning of our era they were so destructive in Spain, that at Tarragona more than twenty-five houses tumbled down, having been undermined by these animals. Rabbits were so numerous in Spain that Catullus called that country Cimiculosa Celtiberia, and medals struck in the reign of Hadrian represent the Peninsula under the form of a beautiful woman, clothed in a robe and mantle, with a rabbit at her feet. The very name Hispania is derived from this animal ; it was called Saphan in Hebrew, of which the Phoenicians made Spania, and the Latins Hispania.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Venison requires the greatest attention in the kitchen, and the observance of special rules as to ‘ mortification ’ or hanging. Venison from Fallow Deer was once reckoned the choicest meat in use, yet was more often spoiled than any other. The Haunch is the finest joint. Before being hung it requires to have certain lymphatic glands removed, which are liable to become starting-points of unpleasant changes. The Neck is the next best joint, and requires no special treatment. The Shoulder and Breast are generally used for pasties, after having been two or three days in the larder. Buck venison is in greatest perfection from midsummer to Michaelmas, and doe from November to January. A Buck Haunch generally weighs from 20 to 25 lb., and, when covered with oiled paper and paste, will require four and a half hours’ roasting, in cold weather more. When it is done the envelopes are removed, and the outside is dredged over and frothed. It is sent to table with a strong brown gravy and red currant jelly, or a sauce made from it. Of other preparations we have Venison Steaks, plain-broiled ; Venison Fry, of which liver and sweetbread are principal ingredients ; Haunch of Venison, braised, after having been larded ; Scollops or Kebobs, and Civet, Pasty, etc. The joints of Red Deer undergo analogous preparations. Fawn of Fallow Deer is treated like lamb, and roasted in quarters, or made into hash and civet. As a dish for show it used also to be roasted entire. The Roe Deer is the most delicately flavoured of the three varieties of venison from deer, and, like Welsh mutton, is very suitable for filleting. It is always finely larded, marinaded, braised, and given in a savoury espagnole sauce. It is also quickly cooked, a loin or saddle requiring three-quarters of an hour’s baking in the oven, or an hour’s braising, to become done. It should not be cooked too long, as prolonged heating makes the meat dry. Cutlets, scollops, haricots, civets, roasts, are all prepared like those of fallow deer. Wiirtemberg is the country where roe deer is yet frequent ; in former times this mountainous country abounded also in red deer ; the royal coat of arms bears a pair of stag’s antlers. HISTORY OF RABBITS CHAPTER XLII. PREPARATIONS OF RABBIT. Not many generations have passed since the time when rabbits were considered .vermin, and their chase beneath the dignity of a sportsman ; but in our time they have been made game, and thus contributed greatly to the emasculation of sport. Rabbits are natives of Africa, and have entered Europe through Spain. There are provinces in Germany which have been kept clear of them, but in most parts of the Continent they have domiciled for good, and are with difficulty restrained from injurious multiplication. At the beginning of our era they were so destructive in Spain, that at Tarragona more than twenty-five houses tumbled down, having been undermined by these animals. Rabbits were so numerous in Spain that Catullus called that country Cimiculosa Celtiberia, and medals struck in the reign of Hadrian represent the Peninsula under the form of a beautiful woman, clothed in a robe and mantle, with a rabbit at her feet. The very name Hispania is derived from this animal ; it was called Saphan in Hebrew, of which the Phoenicians made Spania, and the Latins Hispania.

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