Ox-palates en Hatereaio require a light -and fine farce, and
covering with a batter, and frying in flowing fat.* For the
form called en Hatelettes a good synonym would be on
skeiuers or as hubabs. There are other forms, but not
characteristic, such as h la Bavigote, au Parmesan. The
classic forms have a social significance not difficult to appre-
ciate, for if they are tasty they remain light entertainments,
gustatory amusements, of the class of entrees, which are not
An atlereau or halercau was originally a dish made of stewed veal and
pork, a popular ragoftt at home in the Bretagne. The recipe which is
given by Francatelli, N. 825, for ‘ A Iter emix (surnamed a la Duxellcs),' is
the result of a confusion of an halereati with an hatelelte. Both wore given
originally in ‘Dons de Cornus,’ i., pp. 158, 162.
'1
444
THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY
likely to molest the gastric function. An authoress who
terms them ‘ heef-palates ’ attributes to them the quality of
Javourita entries. Like turtle, calf’s head, pied de benuf, or
beche de mer, they are tasteless in themselves, and depend
for their development upon the sauce and garnish. As to
their attractiveness when well prepared, we agree with ‘ Dons
de Comus.’
The Philosophy of Beefsteak or Btmipsteak forms a power-
ful contrast to the trifles of the foregoing paragraph. Beau-
villiers* speaks of ‘ le veritable bifteck, comme il se fait en
Angleterre,’ and of the other variety, which he says is called
‘ Eomesteak,’ and assures the ‘amateurs de bonne chere’
that it would be worth their while to cross the Channel to
taste this favourite English dish, which, when ‘ mortifie
a son point,’ and well dressed, according to him, is superior
to most of the subtle double relishes of the Parisian
kitchen.
Beef and rump steak are intimately associated with the
history of the training of pugilists. The celebrated trainer
Sir Thomas Parkyns,f Bart., of Bunny Park, greatly pre-
ferred beef-eaters to sheep-biters, as he called those who ate
mutton. On the other hand, when Humphries, the pugilist,
was trained by Eipsham, the keeper of Ipswich Gaol, he was
at first fed upon beef, but got so much flesh that the beef
was changed for mutton, roasted or boiled. To this
Kitchiner observes, apparently as an explanation of this
story, that by boiling a great part of the nutritive juices of
the meat was extracted. This relative loss by boiling or
roasting has never been accurately estimated, and is probably
not very great. The season for steaks used to be from
September 29 to March 25, but since the introduction of
processes of refrigeration, tolerable steak is obtained even
during the summer months.
* ‘ Art du Cuisinier,’ t. i., p. 122.
f In his book ‘ On Wrestling,’ 4to., 3id edit., 1727, p. 10.
BEEFSTEAK AND RUMPSTEAK
445
Page 280
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
A modernized reading is not available for this page yet. You are seeing the original text.
Ox-palates en Hatereaio require a light -and fine farce, and
covering with a batter, and frying in flowing fat.* For the
form called en Hatelettes a good synonym would be on
skeiuers or as hubabs. There are other forms, but not
characteristic, such as h la Bavigote, au Parmesan. The
classic forms have a social significance not difficult to appre-
ciate, for if they are tasty they remain light entertainments,
gustatory amusements, of the class of entrees, which are not
An atlereau or halercau was originally a dish made of stewed veal and
pork, a popular ragoftt at home in the Bretagne. The recipe which is
given by Francatelli, N. 825, for ‘ A Iter emix (surnamed a la Duxellcs),' is
the result of a confusion of an halereati with an hatelelte. Both wore given
originally in ‘Dons de Cornus,’ i., pp. 158, 162.
'1
444
THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY
likely to molest the gastric function. An authoress who
terms them ‘ heef-palates ’ attributes to them the quality of
Javourita entries. Like turtle, calf’s head, pied de benuf, or
beche de mer, they are tasteless in themselves, and depend
for their development upon the sauce and garnish. As to
their attractiveness when well prepared, we agree with ‘ Dons
de Comus.’
The Philosophy of Beefsteak or Btmipsteak forms a power-
ful contrast to the trifles of the foregoing paragraph. Beau-
villiers* speaks of ‘ le veritable bifteck, comme il se fait en
Angleterre,’ and of the other variety, which he says is called
‘ Eomesteak,’ and assures the ‘amateurs de bonne chere’
that it would be worth their while to cross the Channel to
taste this favourite English dish, which, when ‘ mortifie
a son point,’ and well dressed, according to him, is superior
to most of the subtle double relishes of the Parisian
kitchen.
Beef and rump steak are intimately associated with the
history of the training of pugilists. The celebrated trainer
Sir Thomas Parkyns,f Bart., of Bunny Park, greatly pre-
ferred beef-eaters to sheep-biters, as he called those who ate
mutton. On the other hand, when Humphries, the pugilist,
was trained by Eipsham, the keeper of Ipswich Gaol, he was
at first fed upon beef, but got so much flesh that the beef
was changed for mutton, roasted or boiled. To this
Kitchiner observes, apparently as an explanation of this
story, that by boiling a great part of the nutritive juices of
the meat was extracted. This relative loss by boiling or
roasting has never been accurately estimated, and is probably
not very great. The season for steaks used to be from
September 29 to March 25, but since the introduction of
processes of refrigeration, tolerable steak is obtained even
during the summer months.
* ‘ Art du Cuisinier,’ t. i., p. 122.
f In his book ‘ On Wrestling,’ 4to., 3id edit., 1727, p. 10.
BEEFSTEAK AND RUMPSTEAK
445