running down the palate in the median line. Each corruga- tion or fold is crenulated at its free margin ; each half of the palate has sixteen corrugations, the whole, therefore, thirty- two. These arrangements give to the dressed ox-palate and its slices a very characteristic pattern. Many palates are perfectly unpigmented, and these should be chosen for white sauce accompaniment; some, however, are piebald, with greater or smaller patches of pigment, brown or black in colour. These spots, if confined to the middle, when they are called in French diirillon du milieu (‘ Dons de Comus,’ i., p. 156), or not too large in area, maybe cut out if they affect the appearance of the dish ; they never affect its taste or quality, and rather lend depth to a brown sauce. In the principal culinary works of the seventeenth and early parts of the eighteenth century ox-palates are not treated, so that neither De Varennes nor La Chapelle mentions them. They appear on the literary scene with ‘ Dons de Comus,’ and receive at once thirteen different kinds of treatment ; of these Beauvilliers retained seven, Goufle only one. All recipes, wherever described, are after ‘ Dons de Comus,’ except one, which is a generalization with curry. Ox-palates require a general preparation for the removal of the mucous membrane, which if left gives them a ragged appearance. This may be done quickly by skilful grilling, or more slowly and securely by boiling in water and scrap- ing ; the hard border directed to the lip, and the flesh belonging to the soft palate, should be cut off and removed. Clean and parboil the palates thus dressed ; boil them in an aromatised blanc for three or four hours until they are so tender that they can be easily cut with a fork or spoon. Then cut them in two along the median line, and in obloug squares to suit the dish, or to any size required by sub- sequent dressing. Covered with farce, rolled, and gratinated, they become caiielons. When a number of such cauelons, say six, are PREPARATIONS OF OX- PALATES 443 enclosed in a buttered paper and tied up, the bundle is called a pawpietta (also spelled popiette). Such paupiettes may be boiled in broth, drained on paper, and sent to table with the canelons enclosed ; or the canelons may be removed from the envelope, and served with financihre sauce. The palates may be accommodated with Italian broion or cspagnolc sauce; with white velouti sauce {a la Poulctte); they may be made into a salpicon, bound with egg-yolks, egged, crumbed and fried as croqiicttes. With salpicon wrapped in sliced calf's redder or jjzy’s caid, they are termed cn Grctcovie. Stewed in brown sauce they become d la Lyonnaise. Sandwiched with ham and grilled, they are termed an Chingaras, meaning after the manner of the gipsies (Zingaras). Of this expression an author has made au chien gras. Minced, called en menus droits, or en allu- mettes, the palates may be fried with additions, and covered with allemande or espagnole sauce ; but this ragout suffers from the want of external appearance. They may be dressed with the sauce best adapted to the ragout of calf's head, THe de Veau en Tortue (falsely termed d la tortue), and then also pass as en tortue ; in this form they are very much like the thinner flaps of turtle. They may be made in a ragout with truffles and mushrooms, and served in paper capsules.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

running down the palate in the median line. Each corrugation or fold is crenulated at its free margin ; each half of the palate has sixteen corrugations, the whole, therefore, thirtytwo. These arrangements give to the dressed ox-palate and its slices a very characteristic pattern. Many palates are perfectly unpigmented, and these should be chosen for white sauce accompaniment; some, however, are piebald, with greater or smaller patches of pigment, brown or black in colour. These spots, if confined to the middle, when they are called in French duirillon du milieu ('Dons de Comus,' i., p. 156), or not too large in area, maybe cut out if they affect the appearance of the dish ; they never affect its taste or quality, and rather lend depth to a brown sauce. In the principal culinary works of the seventeenth and early parts of the eighteenth century ox-palates are not treated, so that neither De Varennes nor La Chapelle mentions them. They appear on the literary scene with ‘ Dons de Comus,’ and receive at once thirteen different kinds of treatment ; of these Beauvilliers retained seven, Goufle only one. All recipes, wherever described, are after ‘ Dons de Comus,’ except one, which is a generalization with curry. Ox-palates require a general preparation for the removal of the mucous membrane, which if left gives them a ragged appearance. This may be done quickly by skilful grilling, or more slowly and securely by boiling in water and scraping ; the hard border directed to the lip, and the flesh belonging to the soft palate, should be cut off and removed. Clean and parboil the palates thus dressed ; boil them in an aromatised blanc for three or four hours until they are so tender that they can be easily cut with a fork or spoon. Then cut them in two along the median line, and in obloug squares to suit the dish, or to any size required by subsequent dressing. Covered with farce, rolled, and gratinated, they become canelons. When a number of such canelons, say six, are PREPARATIONS OF OX- PALATES enclosed in a buttered paper and tied up, the bundle is called a paupiette (also spelled popiette). Such paupiettes may be boiled in broth, drained on paper, and sent to table with the canelons enclosed ; or the canelons may be removed from the envelope, and served with financiere sauce. The palates may be accommodated with Italian brown or espagnole sauce; with white veloute sauce (a la Poulette); they may be made into a salpicon, bound with egg-yolks, egged, crumbed and fried as croquettes. With salpicon wrapped in sliced calf's udder or pig's caul, they are termed en Gretavie. Stewed in brown sauce they become a la Lyonnaise. Sandwiched with ham and grilled, they are termed a la Zingara, meaning after the manner of the gipsies (Zingaras). Of this expression an author has made au chien gras. Minced, called en menus droits, or en allumettes, the palates may be fried with additions, and covered with allemande or espagnole sauce ; but this ragout suffers from the want of external appearance. They may be dressed with the sauce best adapted to the ragout of calf's head, Tete de Veau en Tortue (falsely termed a la tortue), and then also pass as en tortue ; in this form they are very much like the thinner flaps of turtle. They may be made in a ragout with truffles and mushrooms, and served in paper capsules.

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