FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 244

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Nockerln, Nuckerln, Italian Niocchi, Vienna Dumplings, belong to the division of stirred dumplings. The ingredients are butter, eggs, yolks, flour, Parma cheese, salt, and spices. The dough is distributed in quenelles, and boiled in broth or milk. They may be eaten in soup, or milk, or dressed as a sweet dish, or as a savoury one. A third variation is griess-nockeln, which are not rarely given with Hungarian gulasch, a ragout of rumpsteak flavoured with pahrica, the green or red mild capsicum. Many dishes of the Vienna kitchen bear Italian or Hungarian names, mostly somewhat corrupted, like the above-mentioned niocchi to nockeln, and the Hungarian dish gulasch just mentioned. Caulifloioer, which in High German is Blumenkohl, at Vienna is termed Car viol. Beans pass as Fisoli (phaseoli), etc. Porridge is a preparation of any kind of flour boiled with 25 386 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY water, and various additions made subsequently to the boiling. Its character is that of a stiff soup. Thin or liquid porridge is called gruel. Porridge in German is Brei. The word is derived through middle English porree, through Old French, from Low Latin porrata, broth made with leek {porrum). The affix -idgc (says Chamb. Etym. Dict.) = a^e, arose through confusion with g^ottage. A small dish, from which porridge was eaten, was called a ptorringcr {porriger, with inserted n). Many English cookery-books do not mention porridge at all, yet it occupies an important place in the alimentary history of mankind. Eome, said Cato, was reared upon porridge gruel. The vegetarians have drawn it from literary oblivion. Porridge, also called stirahoiot, or in Italian p>olenta, can be produced with wheatmeal, oatmeal, maizemeal, and ground rice. It requires careful stirring during its preparation. It can be eaten with milk, treacle, butter, and sugar, preserved fruit or grated cheese. To open up the starch the porridge must be well boiled, or kept hot for some time in a water-bath, after having been boiled. Maizevieal requires steeping in water before being boiled, and removal of all light floating particles ; it must be left in water for twelve hours or more, and then boiled, or, as it is called by an Americanism, creed, till it be sufficiently soft for digestion. Cold Porridge is a pudding-like preparation. When this dish is made sufficiently thick, or stiff, or concentrated, it becomes solid on cooling and standing, like the starch-jellies previously described. It may be eaten cold, with cold or warm sauce, or be fried, or immersed in milk. Plum Porridge, De la Givutd, or Sweet Porridge, is a historical dish, as it was made by the Lord of Addington as Coquits Begins or Grand Queux, and presented by him to the Sovereign at the coronation banquet. Before the coro- nation of George IV. (1820) the then Lord of Addington (Archbishop of Canterbury) claimed of the Court of Privileges PORRIDGE, GRUEL AND SKILLY 387 that he should have opportunity to sei’ve this dish ; the claim, was granted, and the Archbishop presented the dish, Be la GroaU, to the King. The plums in this porridge were probably, as in plum-pudding, raisins and currants.