FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 243

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Yeast or Sponge DwngAings are made with a fermented dough containing milk, eggs, butter, salt, and flour. They require boiling for half an hour, and are eaten with roast meat, fish, or compote. Great care must be taken to make them spongy by cautious selection of the yeast and vigilance over the conditions of the rising. Braised Buns (in Germany called Dampfnudeln), or Steam Noicilles, consist of a well-raised rich dough, baked in a pan in a shallow bath of milk, in an atmosphere of overheated steam. They thus are hroioned at the bottom and the top, and surrounded by a white ring, where the milk protected them from radiation. The dumplings are a remarkable illustration of the difference between conducted bottom heat, which browns them from below, radiated heat, which browns them from above, and condiicted diffused heat, which, in the shape of, or attached to, steam from the milk, causes them to rise, in the first instance above the level of the milk in which they are immersed. The white soft rim correspond- ing to the surface of the milk enables the dumpling to rise even after its convex top as well as its flat under surface has been browned. Braised buns have, therefore, for a cook great theoretical interest, and their production requires no small amount of skill and a good oven. They are the result as well as the transmitters of much culinary philo- sophy. Saxon Green Dumplings fried are an ancient sweet dish, the recipe for which was preserved in the family of Baron von Miilbacher, quondam Saxon Ambassador at Paris. Its antiquity is also testified by the fact that expressed juice of tansy is one of the ingredients. The green colour is pro- duced by spinach. Small Dumplings for Soup are produced from a paste of butter, yolk, flour, salt, and spice, and ladled into boiling broth. Almond and Currant Dumplings are a sweet dish, and. DUMPLINGS AND KLOSSE 385 like the Saxon green dumplings, eaten with a sweet wine sauce. The distribution of dimplirujs amongst nations is a part of the objects of the topography of civilization. In the county of Norfolk dumplings are, so to say, at home. Next in reputation are those of Bavaria, called Knddel. Almost the same, or similar, dumplings in Snahia bear the name of Knbpfie. In Austria dumplings go by the name of Nuckcrln, related to or derived from the Italian niocchi. After the late King Frederick William IV. of Prussia had given audience to the quondam poet and later revolutionist Herwegh, there was published at Berlin a fictitious satirical account of the conversation alleged to have taken place between them. Amongst other questions, the King is repre- sented to have asked, ‘ Has there been a good harvest of the knbdel?’ as if they grew on trees. Herwegh is said to have replied : ‘ Thanks, your Majesty, the knodel have suc- ceeded very well.’ As Herwegh was a Suabian, and not a Bavarian, the Berlin literate satirist made a mistake in putting Knddel for Knd])fle.