The spirit of cookery

emains the same. If for this preparation the name of Brown Sauce luith Essence of Fowl were adopted, the surname of Rigence would be as unnecessary as it is meaningless. Various sauces, including one called Devil’s, may be seen in Gouffe, 434 ; F., 16 et seq. ; U.D., 994 et seq. ; most of these sauces are paralleled by analogous ragoftts. Voce Sxipr6me Saxice, cf. Gouffe, 439, where also see a discussion on the different opinions which cooks entertain regarding this sauce, and two alternative recipes. Tlie Horseradish Sauce of Gouffe, 442, is mere cream with horseradish. Voce Moringa Sauce, cf, ‘ Wyvern,’ 89. DERIVED SAUCES includes a pandemonium of herbs and onions. In genuine French parlance ravigote means a sauce made of certain aromatic herbs; it is derived from the verb ravigoter, to revive, to regain one’s strength. Thus, any sauce made of refreshing green fine herbs would be a ravigote. If these herbs were pounded and incorporated with butter, the product would be a fourth variation, ravigote butter, and the addition of such to other sauces may entitle them to be termed co^npoicncl ravigote sauces. The herbs to be used in all ravigotes are chervil, parsley, tarragon, chives, garden cress, celery, balm, and, for green ravigote, spinach. Only Dubois has onion in his modification, which is, however, warm ; while of the others one is cold, and passes with that adjective. As it is mayonnaise to which some ravigote has been added, it should be termed mayonnaise ravigotde, or green mayonnaise, jhcrora Saxice is bechamel with a leason of egg-yolk. The latter should be of the orange colour of black Spanish fowl eggs. This sauce has two variations, determined by details of no importance. Maitre d’Hotel Sauces. The surname of h la Maitre d’Hdtel is applied to several preparations which must be kept distinct. The first is Maitre d'Hotel Bictter or Gold Maitre d’Hdtel Sauce, which consists of butter mixed with parsley, lemon-juice, salt, and nutmeg. When this butter is gently warmed, and by stirring made to assume the consistency of cream, it becomes Maitre d Hotel Sauce. When the butter is incorporated over the fire with an equal weight of bechamel sauce, we obtain Compound Maitre d’Hotel Sauce. When the incorporation of the butter is made with veloutd, we obtain the Maitre d Hdtel Sauce lice. Made with espagnole it was dedicated to Chateaubriand, when the French under his Ministry invaded Spain in 1823. Sauces of which the Basis is Sauce k I’AHemande. Green Ravigote consists of allemande to which the green extract or puree called ravigote above described has been added. It is also called satice verte. It can be compounded with the aid of ravigote butter ; and then is named Allemande verte or Allemande an vertprL Veyietian Sauce is allemande flavoured with tarragon, to which other herbs may be added. Polish Sauce is allemande flavoured with horseradish and spices. Of this there is a strong and a mild variety distinguished. Sauce for Breasts of Game is allemande flavoured with the fumet of the game used, mostly partridges or pheasants. Parisian Sauce is allemande flavoured with truffles and tinted by several artiflces. It is to be served with entrees of game or poultry, and is the special sauce of the Parisian ragoM. Sicilian Sauce is allemande with truffles and mushrooms, garlic, aromatic herbs, and spices.