FoodNet

The spirit of cookery

1895

Page 163 · 1 recipe record on this page

Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Atelets Satice, Sauce aux Hdtelets, is now a covering for small bits of meat, or small birds or fish, which are strung on skewers, so-called hdtelets. The meat thus is in the position of kebobs or khubabs. The things to be fried are covered by this preparation, falsely called a sauce, then breadcrumbed, over the paste, dipped in beaten eggs, and again breadcrumbed and fried. Such fritures are termed a la Villeroi or a la Dauphine. Sup>reme Sauce, Sauce ait Suprtme de Volaille, is veloute flavoured with mushrooms and consomme of fowlsSupreme Sauce, to be eaten with supreme de volaille, ie., slices of braised breast of fowl. This is really the highest development of veloute sauce ; it verges towards bechamel and allemande, but does not receive any liaison ; however, both these sauces go well with the supreme. Horseradish Sauce assorts better with espagnole. If to be kept as white sauce, do not boil the horseradish long, and add much cream. Unites well with boiled beef or braised fillet of beef. The Hindostan housekeeper, or his ramasamy, will do well to remember that, although horse- radish grows well at Ootacamund and at Bangalore, yet the root of the moriuga, or ‘ drumstick-tree,’ provides a good substitute for horseradish. Morhuja-root Sauce (for use in East India).— Treat the moringa-root like horseradish. Gold Sauce of Moringa-root is the analogue of cold horse- radish sauce. Mingle with an ordinary mayonnaise or tartar sauce iced. Cardinal Sauce is velout6 somewhat promiscuously flavoured, and coloured red, whence the name. 250 THE SPIRIT OF COOKERY Crayfish Sauce is veloutd with fumet of crayfish and cray- fish tails. To flavour this sauce well, the carapaces of the crayfish should be extracted, as for bisque. Colour with alkanet-rooi. Lobster Sauce is velout6 coloured with Armenian hole, or lobster coral. Gascony Sauce is velout6, with capers, truffles, and a leason of yolk.* Sauces derived from Bdchamel Sauce. For the compounding of these sauces either the true bechamel, i.e. , veloute mixed with an equal volume of cream, or the direct bechamel, in which butter is substituted for cream, can be employed. White Bavigote, veloute flavoured with spiced vinegar and Harvey sauce, is made in three modifications, of which the second one is by Urbain Dubois, the cosmopolitan chef, and * Notes on, and Literary Refer edicts to. Finished Brown and White Sauces. — How many brown sauces are mixed with wine can be seen from F., 28 et seq. ; D.D., 989 et seq. For Sauce Bordelaise, F. prescribes red, Gouffe white, Bordeaux wine. As a general rule, wine should be avoided in savouries, as its flavour is heterogeneous to them. Poivrade, according to Gouffe, 98, is to be coloured a sham-brown by caramel. Matelote is treated by D.D., 989 ; F., 31 ; Gouffe, 429 ; the latter omits fish court bouillon. De Varenne writes matelotte. Voce Brown Regency Sauce, cf. F., 49 ; Gouff^, 434. The equivocal use of the names of dishes is demonstrated by the sauces passing under the name of Regency, a word started by Careme when he was for the first time one of the chefs of George IV. Gouffe’s Sauce iL V Essence de Volaille, dite Rigence, differs entirely from that of F., in this, that its fumet is not made of eel, not even of fish, but of fowl, and is therefore much less characteristic ; the wine to be added is not red, but white Bordeaux, as in the case of the Sauce Bordelaise, only the es- pagnole r