FoodNetArchive

Mrs. Lincoln's Boston cook book

1884

Page 11

Presented as published in 1884. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Stewing is another form of boiling or cooking in a small quantity of water, at a moderate heat, and for a long time. The word means a slow, moist, gentle heat. It is an eco- nomical mode of cooking, except where a fire has to be kept for this purpose alone. The long-continued action of a gentle heat softens the fibres ; and the coarsest and cheapest kinds of meat, cooked in this wa}^, with vegeta- bles, may be made tender and nutritious. By judicious use of seasoning material, remnants can be made into savory and nourishing dishes. Whether we call it simply a stew, or ragout, haricot, or salmi, the principle is the same, — that of slow, steady simmering, rather than fierce boiling. Fricasseeing (meaning "to fry") is a form of stewing. The term is usually applied to chicken, veal, or some small game, which is cut into pieces, and fried either before or after stewing, and served with a rich white or brown sauce, and without vegetables. Any meat that is quite juicy and not very tough may be first browned on the out- side to keep in the juices, and improve the flavor. Coarse, The Boston Cook Booh. « 13 tough pieces should not be browned, but dipped in vinegar to soften the fibre ; and pieces containing much gristle should be put into cold water. Braising is a form of stewing done usuallj^ in a braising- pan or kettle which has coals in the cover. Any granite or iron pan with a close cover to keep in the steam will answer the purpose. When placed in the oven, where it is surrounded by a slow, uniform heat, it needs very little attention. It is one of the most economical and satisfac- tory ways of cooking large pieces of tough, lean meat, pigeons, liver, fowls, heart, etc. Stock, vegetables, and bacon may be used, if a rich liquor be required ; but water, herbs, and simple seasoning make it very palatable. Baking is hardening or cooking in a dry heat, as in a close oven. Nearly all flour mixtures — bread, pastry, and some forms of pudding — are more wholesome baked than when cooked in any other way. Many forms of baking are really stewing ; but the closely confined heat of the oven gives an entirely different flavor from that obtained hy stewing over the fire. This is seen in the difference between stewed and baked apple-sauce, beans, etc. Meat and fish, if baked in the right way, lose less in weight than when boiled or roasted. To bake them prop- erly, the juices must be kept within the meat. An intense heat at first is necessary to harden the albumen ; then re- duce the heat, that the outside may not become too hard, and baste frequently to prevent drying. No water should be put in the pan at first, as it will then be impossible to have a greater heat than that of boiling water (212'') , while for baking meat 280°, or more, is required. Put one or two tablespoonfuls of beef drippings, or some of the fat from the meat, in the pan, to use in basting, as the fat can be made much hotter than water. If the joint be very large, or the meat need thorough cooking, hke poultry, veal, or pork, water can be added to check the heat as soon as the outside is cooked sufficiently to keep in the juices. This will keep the meat moist. Small cuts, and meats to be eaten rare, are better baked without water. 14 The Boston Cook Book,