cannot escape. Then move the kettle where the water will simmer slowl^' . See that the cover fits tightly, to keep in the steam. The water should be salted to raise the boiling-point, and increase the density of the water, and thus prevent the escape of the juices. A small amount of the albumen in the outer surface will be dissolved and rise as scum. This should be removed, or it will settle on the meat and render it uninviting in appearance. If the meat be put in the kettle with the bones uppermost, then the scum will not settle on the meat. In turning the meat do not pierce into it to let the juices escape. It will take a longer time to cook in this way, but the fibrine will be softened, and the meat made more tender and of better flavor, than when kept boiling furiously. Second. Meats are cooked in water to have the nutri- ment wholly in the Uquid^i as in soups and meat teas. Cut the meat in small pieces ; soak in cold water, the longer the better ; heat graduall}', and keep hot, but not boiling, until all the goodness is extracted. Third. Meats are cooked in water to have the nutri- ment partly in the liquid and partly in the meat., as in stews., fricassees^ etc. Put the meat in cold water, let the water boil quickly, then skim, and keep at the simmering-point. The cold water will draw out enough of the juices to enrich the liquid ; then, as it reaches the boiling-point, the meat hardens, and retains the remainder. Fish is usually cooked in boiling water for the purpose of keeping the juices in the fish. As the flesh of fish breaks easily, the water should never be allowed to boil rapidly. Salmon, mackerel, or any very oily fish, should be put into cold water, and brought almost to the boiling- point quickly, as they have a \^ry strong, rich flavor. A little of this flavor can be lost without injury to the fish. Vegetables, which are mostly starch and water, should be put into boiling water and boiled rapidly, that the small portions of albumen which they contain may be hardened on the surface ; then, if the starch grains are burst quickly, they will absorb the albuminous juices within. 12 The Boston Cook Book. Milk boils at 196°. Being thicker than water, less of the steam escapes, and the whole liquid becomes hot sooner than water. The bubbles rise rapidly, and, owing to their tenacity, do not burst at the surface, but climb over one another till they run over the edge of the pan. Milk, grains, custards, and any substances which, from their glutinous nature, would be liable to adhere to the kettle, are much more easily and safely cooked in a double boiler, or in a pail within a kettle of water. This is one form of steaming, or cooking over boiling water. In steam- ing, the water should not stop boiling until the articles are cooked. This is a convenient form of cooking many arti- cles which it is troublesome to cook with a dry heat, and yet do not need the solvent powers of water. Watery vegetables are rendered drier by steaming ; and tough pieces of meat which 'cannot be roasted, are first made tender b}^ steaming, and then browned in the oven. Some- times meat is steamed in its own juices alone ; this is called smothering, or pot-roasting.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

cannot escape. Then move the kettle where the water will simmer slowly.' . See that the cover fits tightly, to keep in the steam. The water should be salted to raise the boiling-point, and increase the density of the water, and thus prevent the escape of the juices. A small amount of the albumen in the outer surface will be dissolved and rise as scum. This should be removed, or it will settle on the meat and render it uninviting in appearance. If the meat be put in the kettle with the bones uppermost, then the scum will not settle on the meat. In turning the meat do not pierce into it to let the juices escape. It will take a longer time to cook in this way, but the fibrine will be softened, and the meat made more tender and of better flavor, than when kept boiling furiously. Second. Meats are cooked in water to have the nutriment wholly in the liquid, as in soups and meat teas. Cut the meat in small pieces ; soak in cold water, the longer the better ; heat gradually, and keep hot, but not boiling, until all the goodness is extracted. Third. Meats are cooked in water to have the nutriment partly in the liquid and partly in the meat, as in stews, fricassees, etc. Put the meat in cold water, let the water boil quickly, then skim, and keep at the simmering-point. The cold water will draw out enough of the juices to enrich the liquid ; then, as it reaches the boiling-point, the meat hardens, and retains the remainder. Fish is usually cooked in boiling water for the purpose of keeping the juices in the fish. As the flesh of fish breaks easily, the water should never be allowed to boil rapidly. Salmon, mackerel, or any very oily fish, should be put into cold water, and brought almost to the boiling-point quickly, as they have a very strong, rich flavor. A little of this flavor can be lost without injury to the fish. Vegetables, which are mostly starch and water, should be put into boiling water and boiled rapidly, that the small portions of albumen which they contain may be hardened on the surface ; then, if the starch grains are burst quickly, they will absorb the albuminous juices within. The Boston Cook Book. Milk boils at 196°. Being thicker than water, less of the steam escapes, and the whole liquid becomes hot sooner than water. The bubbles rise rapidly, and, owing to their tenacity, do not burst at the surface, but climb over one another till they run over the edge of the pan. Milk, grains, custards, and any substances which, from their glutinous nature, would be liable to adhere to the kettle, are much more easily and safely cooked in a double boiler, or in a pail within a kettle of water. This is one form of steaming, or cooking over boiling water. In steaming, the water should not stop boiling until the articles are cooked. This is a convenient form of cooking many articles which it is troublesome to cook with a dry heat, and yet do not need the solvent powers of water. Watery vegetables are rendered drier by steaming ; and tough pieces of meat which cannot be roasted, are first made tender by steaming, and then browned in the oven. Sometimes meat is steamed in its own juices alone ; this is called smothering, or pot-roasting.

Mrs. Lincoln's Boston cook book