The sense of taste is closely associated with that of smell ; indeed, the sense of smell has nearly all to do with the perception of flavour. There is an inseparable connection between the two senses of smell and taste, for when anosmia or loss of the sense of smell occurs, all taste, except for bitterness, sweetness, sour- ness, and saltness, is completely lost, so far as ideas of flavour, &c., are concerned. Brillat-Savarin, the high-priest of gastronomy, quaintly puts it that smell and taste form only one sense, having the AUSTRALIAN WINE. 221 mouth as laboratory, with the nose for the fire-place or chimney ; the one serving to taste soUds, the other gases. George Dallas, too, the gifted author of The BooTc of the Table, also expresses the association of taste and smell in an apt way. He makes reference to the fact that the other senses are not dependent on each other, but that the hearing becomes more acute in a blind man. On the contrary, taste is made for marriage, and smell is its better half. Taste loses, as he says, all its delicacy when it cannot mate with-a fine olfactory nerve. The late Dr. Druitt has like- wise noted that the union of smell with taste is essential for the enjoyment of wine. From the foregoing it will be seen that when we speak of taste we refer to a complicated and extremely delicate pro- cess. There is this also to be remembered, that it is a sense which can be cultivated to a high degree ; and in the wine- taster it is brought to the very pitch of excellence. Yet, notwithstanding all this, it must be a matter of every-day experience, that people will profess to an ability to judge wine when they know absolutely nothing of the various points, so to speak, to be looked for. What I mean is this, that there are many different things to be observed when a wine is tasted, and that each one requkes to have proper judgment bestowed upon it. What these are I shall en- deavour to speak of in due course. Wine tasting is a tine art as seen with the courtieis or experts who are employed by the large houses in Bordeaux. There are exceptional qualifications required for this office, for its holders must possess a dehcate and highly trained palate, and an exquisite and perfect sense of smell, while at the same time a lengthened experience and unerring dis- crimination in the value of the wine submitted to them are also called for. Mr. James Smith, in his prize essay, already referred to, quotes with approval the following passage from 222 THE ART OF LIVING IN AUSTRALU. a French authority:-" The courtage of wines is, then, a true " science, which is acquired by long observations, by nu- " merous tastings, extensive practice, and a correct judg- " ment ; a science which has rendered, and is daily render- " ing, true and important services to our vinicole depart - " ment (that of the Gironde) ; for, by this means, intelligent " classifications have given to our grands crus a universal ." reputation, and have made our best wines known and " appreciated throughout the civilised world. In the judg- ■" ing of wines, therefore, at least four essentials are neces- " sary : two of the senses — the taste and the smell must be " perfect — while great experience and special knowledge " must be equally present."

AI-modernized reading of the original text

The sense of taste is closely associated with that of smell ; indeed, the sense of smell has nearly all to do with the perception of flavour. There is an inseparable connection between the two senses of smell and taste, for when anosmia or loss of the sense of smell occurs, all taste, except for bitterness, sweetness, sourness, and saltness, is completely lost, so far as ideas of flavour, &c., are concerned. Brillat-Savarin, the high-priest of gastronomy, quaintly puts it that smell and taste form only one sense, having the mouth as laboratory, with the nose for the fire-place or chimney ; the one serving to taste solids, the other gases. George Dallas, too, the gifted author of The BooTc of the Table, also expresses the association of taste and smell in an apt way. He makes reference to the fact that the other senses are not dependent on each other, but that the hearing becomes more acute in a blind man. On the contrary, taste is made for marriage, and smell is its better half. Taste loses, as he says, all its delicacy when it cannot mate with a fine olfactory nerve. The late Dr. Druitt has likewise noted that the union of smell with taste is essential for the enjoyment of wine. From the foregoing it will be seen that when we speak of taste we refer to a complicated and extremely delicate process. There is this also to be remembered, that it is a sense which can be cultivated to a high degree ; and in the winetaster it is brought to the very pitch of excellence. Yet, notwithstanding all this, it must be a matter of every-day experience, that people will profess to an ability to judge wine when they know absolutely nothing of the various points, so to speak, to be looked for. What I mean is this, that there are many different things to be observed when a wine is tasted, and that each one requires to have proper judgment bestowed upon it. What these are I shall endeavour to speak of in due course. Wine tasting is a fine art as seen with the courtiers or experts who are employed by the large houses in Bordeaux. There are exceptional qualifications required for this office, for its holders must possess a delicate and highly trained palate, and an exquisite and perfect sense of smell, while at the same time a lengthened experience and unerring discrimination in the value of the wine submitted to them are also called for. Mr. James Smith, in his prize essay, already referred to, quotes with approval the following passage from a French authority:-" The courtage of wines is, then, a true " science, which is acquired by long observations, by nu- " merous tastings, extensive practice, and a correct judg- " ment ; a science which has rendered, and is daily render- " ing, true and important services to our vinicole depart - " ment (that of the Gironde) ; for, by this means, intelligent " classifications have given to our grands crus a universal ." reputation, and have made our best wines known and " appreciated throughout the civilised world. In the judg- ■" ing of wines, therefore, at least four essentials are neces- " sary : two of the senses — the taste and the smell must be " perfect — while great experience and special knowledge " must be equally present."

The art of living in Australia