But the white varieties ynW perhaps afford us a better idea of the
expression " cepage," for three different varieties may be adduced,
whose characteristics are well known. First of all there is Riesling
(pronounced Rees'-ling, but too often, as I have just mentioned, erro-
neously spelt Eeisling), whose prototype is that delicate Eiesling of
the Rhine, from which those famous wines of the Rheingau, namely
Steinberg, Marcobrunner, Johannisberg, as well as Hock, are made.
It is probably the best of our white wines, and does well in the
cooler districts. But it should be borne in mind that long prun-
ing is indispensable for it, as it gives very poor crops when pruned
short.
Then we have Tokay (pronounced Tok'-ay), so nearly corresponding
to the Furmint, which is the chief grape grown in the well-known
Tokay vineyards of Hungary. It yields a most excellent wine, and
does well in the same regions as the preceding.
And lastly, Verdeilho (pronounced Ver-dell'-o) deserves to be re-
ferred to amongst the white wines. It is the principal white variety
grown in Madeira, and Madeira is a wine that is especially held in repute.
It is better suited for the warm districts, and requires to be completely
ripe before vintage.
It was a most fortunate thing for Australia, therefore, that
her pioneers in viticulture were men like James Busby, who
AUSTBALIAN WINE. 191
obtained their plants from the jfinest " cepages " in Europe.
And this is a magnificent legacy which must inevitably ex-
ercise a powerful influence for ever on the Australian vine.
Mr. Hubert de Castella drew special attention to this very
fact in his paper read before the Royal Colonial Institute,
London, in 1888 : so that a beginning was made under the
most auspicious conditions.
There are some interesting facts in connection with the
different "cepages" which are certainly worth noticing. If
the climate and the soil in one place be similar to the climate
and soil in another, each variety — le cepage — of the grape
wDl always produce the same wine. Thus some vineyards on
the Yarra, Victoria, having a similar climate and similar
soil to one of the great Bordeaux districts of France, pro
duced a wane hardly to be distinguished from that of the .
latter.
Then, again, one vine may produce a choice wine in one
locality, but only an indifferent growth in another ; and,
conversely, a different "cepage" which does well in the
latter region is almost a faOure in the former. For instance,
in France, the Gamay in the Beaujolais district, in which
the soil is granitic, gives a superior wine to the Pinot ; but,
on the other hand, the Pinot in the Burgundy country,
where there is a limestone formation, gives forth a world-
famous wine, whilst the Gamay is nowhere in comparison.
Next, it is necessary to remember that the effect of a
warmer climate is to increase the alcoholic strength of a
wine. At the same time, however, it must not be forgotten
that this effect is greater in some varieties than in others.
One " cepage," giving in a cool region a wine of 18 per cent,
of alcohol, when transported to a warmer locality may show
an increase to 26 per cent, of alcohol. Another " cepage,"
showing 20 per cent, in the lower temperature, may only
develop 23 per cent, in the hotter districts.
1^2 THE AET OF LIVING IN AUSTRALIA.
Page 130
Presented as published in 1893. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
But the white varieties will perhaps afford us a better idea of the expression " cepage," for three different varieties may be adduced, whose characteristics are well known. First of all there is Riesling (pronounced Rees'-ling, but too often, as I have just mentioned, erroneously spelt Riesling), whose prototype is that delicate Riesling of the Rhine, from which those famous wines of the Rheingau, namely Steinberg, Marcobrunner, Johannisberg, as well as Hock, are made. It is probably the best of our white wines, and does well in the cooler districts. But it should be borne in mind that long pruning is indispensable for it, as it gives very poor crops when pruned short.
Then we have Tokay (pronounced Tok'-ay), so nearly corresponding to the Furmint, which is the chief grape grown in the well-known Tokay vineyards of Hungary. It yields a most excellent wine, and does well in the same regions as the preceding.
And lastly, Verdeilho (pronounced Ver-dell'-o) deserves to be referred to amongst the white wines. It is the principal white variety grown in Madeira, and Madeira is a wine that is especially held in repute. It is better suited for the warm districts, and requires to be completely ripe before vintage.
It was a most fortunate thing for Australia, therefore, that her pioneers in viticulture were men like James Busby, who
obtained their plants from the finest "cepages" in Europe. And this is a magnificent legacy which must inevitably exercise a powerful influence for ever on the Australian vine. Mr. Hubert de Castella drew special attention to this very fact in his paper read before the Royal Colonial Institute, London, in 1888 : so that a beginning was made under the most auspicious conditions.
There are some interesting facts in connection with the different "cepages" which are certainly worth noticing. If the climate and the soil in one place be similar to the climate and soil in another, each variety — le cepage — of the grape will always produce the same wine. Thus some vineyards on the Yarra, Victoria, having a similar climate and similar soil to one of the great Bordeaux districts of France, produced a wine hardly to be distinguished from that of the . latter.
Then, again, one vine may produce a choice wine in one locality, but only an indifferent growth in another ; and, conversely, a different "cepage" which does well in the latter region is almost a failure in the former. For instance, in France, the Gamay in the Beaujolais district, in which the soil is granitic, gives a superior wine to the Pinot ; but, on the other hand, the Pinot in the Burgundy country, where there is a limestone formation, gives forth a worldfamous wine, whilst the Gamay is nowhere in comparison.
Next, it is necessary to remember that the effect of a warmer climate is to increase the alcoholic strength of a wine. At the same time, however, it must not be forgotten that this effect is greater in some varieties than in others. One " cepage," giving in a cool region a wine of 18 per cent, of alcohol, when transported to a warmer locality may show an increase to 26 per cent, of alcohol. Another " cepage," showing 20 per cent, in the lower temperature, may only develop 23 per cent, in the hotter districts.