FoodNet

The art of living in Australia

1893

Page 129

Presented as published in 1893. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Many words connected with viticulture are of French origin, as might be expected considering that it is a land where the wine industry is such a source of wealth. The term " cepage " (pronounced say-pazh) is one of these, and it possesses quite a distinctive and particular significance, so that a little explanation is necessary. The vine family is divided into several species, of which the ordinary gi"ape vine, Vitis Vinifera, is the most important. Of the Vitis Vinifera there are many, more or less distinct, sorts of " cepages " ; and the value of the word lies in the fact that it serves as a means of distinguishing all these different varieties. Originally a native of Asia Minor, there are now over a thousand sorts of European vines. Of these quite a number are already cultivated in Australia, and a brief refer- ence to a few will help to a better understanding of the term " cepage." Of the red grapes the following may be instanced: — The Carbenet (pronounced Car'-ben-ay) ; of which there are two varieties, the gros or large, and the sauvignon or smaller kind. The latter is perhaps the choicest of all the red wine grapes, and has a characteristic flavour, with delicious bouquet and perfume. It forms the basis of all the best vine- yards of Bordeaux, and is largely cultivated in Australia, for it does well in the cooler parts. And it will be just as well to take this opportunity of referring to the word " Carbenet," as in Australia it is much too often erroneously spelt " Cabernet." The best authorities, however, are all in favour of " Carbenet " as the proper mode of spelling. In the same way an unfortunate orthography in the case of Riesling, which 190 THE ART OF LIVING IN AUSTRALIA. was given as "Eeisling" in the London Exhibition of 1886, gave a writer in the Saturday Review the opportunity of a tirade against Australian wine-makers. The Pinot (pronounced Peen'-o) Noir or Noirier will serve excellently to demonstrate the significance of the word " cepage." This is the dominating grape of the best vineyards of Burgundy, and enters into the composition of many famous wines, such as Eomanee-Conti Cham- bertin, Gorton, &c. ; just as the Carbenet Sauvignon belongs to the renowned clarets of Bordeaux, Chateau Margaux, Chateau Lafitte, and Chateau Latour. This black Burgundy does well in our cooler regions, and is usually pruned short, although it gives far better results with long pruning. Shiraz (pronounced Shir-az') is another red variety which is exten- sively cultivated in Aiistralia. It is the grape from which the cele- brated Hermitage red wine of France is made, and was first planted by a monk, who brouglit the cuttings from Shii-az, in Persia. It is one of our most reliable red varieties, aud prospers best in a moderate tempe- rature.