A manual of home-making

Diredions for fiUing a shiri-waist or a house'dress. Place the fitted or made lielt on the figure, being sure that the center back is at the center bfiek of the frjcure. Settle the waist well to the figiir<;, and pin it at the eent'Cr front exactly on the imlieating: linen. Turn the ahoidder itnd under-arm seams toward the front. Make ii petieml survey of the waist lu'fnre proecfMling further. If the .shoulders of the figure are ver>^ j*f|uare or very slopinj^, alterations will probably Ije necessary (Fig. 70). If tlie t^houlders are very square, the waist is likely to be lifted too much at the point of the shoulder, causing wrinkles ac^roBs the waist. To eorrect this def(^'t, take the shoulder seam diX'[irT near the nt^k (Fi^. 70), and cut away tlie surplan material This may make the neck ton sinall. If so, cut the neck-line larger by slashing it .shj^htly until the correct sixe is obtained. If the shoulders are very sloping, the waist drops at the end of the ehoidder eausinj^ wTinkles from the neck to the armhole. To eorrect this defect, take up the shoulder seain at the jKiint of the shoulder (Fig. 70), Then enlarise the annhole by cutting away thf^ material under the arm. Tap4T it Ijoth in the front and back to the normal armhole. The shoulder seam should be about I inch tnick t»f the* hij^hest point of the .Hhottlder. If this M'ani Ls tiKj far back, it will narrow tlu* back of the waLst; if ttm far forward, it will give the shoulders a rounditl ap^Myi ranee. A yoke-line ehould drop well forward frotu the normal shouldcT-line. This adjustment depends entirely on the figiire fitted. In general, the collar-liup sliouki run in a gn<Kl curve from the Ixine at the base of the neck in the back to abovf^ the two small lw»nes at the front of the neck. Keep the neck-line close to the neek and rather high at the side just under the ear, unless the nrrk is very short, in which case, the aide of the neck-line may be lowc^ffnl slij^htly to give more length. If the nei:k-line is too lar^e, take up the shouUl«.'r seam. The fullness muBt never he taken out in the center front by lapping. This w^ould cause the grain of the material to iilo[>e downward toward the center front. In a ti^ht-fitting lining a dart is siwimetimei^ taken in the center fronts to make the neck-line smaller aad to take out extra fullnes.^ over the chest. Taking up the shouldiT seams may nen^essitjite loweriiiK the armhole. The under-arm seam should appciir to be a eontinuatitin of the shoulder Beam and sh^iuld hill frf*m the center under-arm straight down to the waist- line. If it is (It^ircnl to narrow the appeanvnet" of the back width at the I I I 362 A MANUAL OF HOME-MAKING WAis^lino, iUv iintU'r-:irtn m^m rimy Ik* »tiiDte<i ultghUy towBrd hack.