Adjust the fuilti€Hs around the waiist-Uo^ next. Pin the wftkt to ii stif-
fened l>elt if it is to t>e a pari of ti dnm, or to » non-elaittie tape, if it i» to
U^ a JHt'jmrat^ gannent. In either cam the a^ljusting id nhont the aaini^.
Pin the renter btu-k of the wuisi to tUe c [it*T Iwu'k *}{ the Mtin^;; at eithi^r
the normiil waii^t-linc or the miseci wiiust-hnf, dependinjc on whether a
skirt in to Im? made or not, LfK*ate the under-arm seany*, and pin them to
the belting. I*in the center front of the waist tcj the centeT front uf the
belt. Draw the gathering threads ti^t, and adjust tlic ftiUneas. To okmI
Bgures a shght bloiisiog ik be<x>niing. A;s far as poswtile^ keep the liiif«
made by the gathering at right angles to the wai0t4ine. Thia gives the
figure u straight appearance.
If the waittt in too tight over the bust» it may l»e made shijhtly larger by
letting out the under-arm scam; or in ease the waist ia toeing fitted in
praetiee material, fuUnen at the bust may be allowed as shown in Figs.
65 and B6.
The armhole Une is one nf the rawt imtKirtani lines in the waist. From
the point of the shoulder, the line f^hould drop alrncjst straight to the front
maM!le of the arm. The line then curves to fit the underarm as cloeely as is
comfortable and furins a nearly ^traiglit Une along the armhole at the liack.
The grf«.ter amount of fullness in the sleeve should fall over the nhouhler
bone which in most caaes is from ?f to l}4 inches in front of the slioulder
seam, llie stniight lengthii-ist^ grain of the material should fall stmight
down fnMU the highest |Kiint of the shoulder. If the sleeve is too large or
Um Kmall, it f^hijiild U" changed at the scam. Observe the length of the
sleeve^ and try on the cuff. If the sleeve puffs slightly at tlie liack even
when the ell>ow IS bcnt» take the seam in the sleeve dieeper, but not the mmm
of the walHt.
If a eollur-band is to W uswl, it Hhould lie tried on at this Lime.
A sbirt'-waifit should fit loosely but smoothly. Overfitting takra away
from the iid'ormal graces and style of the wai«t. After a plain )>ihirt-wuist
has been sntisfnctorily adjusted, an excellent plan is to rip it opart and
either cut a new pattern or correct the old one from it. If this is done^
much difficult fitting rnay l:>e avoided at another time.
After the waint ha*« Ixt^n fitted and bt-fore the sleeve has been n^moved,
mark Ixith the sleeve and the waist so that they will go together again
without diificulty. Mark on the U'lt the iNiints at which the under-ann
seams fall, and also the line of the waist.
RfwttjiMte the .nleeve. finish the waist as nearly as po«sililc at the bottom,
and again \nifiie it into the waist. Bjixte the ctillar-band into place, or if
a fancy ccjllar is to be used, baste it together, and try it on at the next
fitting Pin the W!iij«t again to the foundation t>elt.
Place tlie waist on llie figure, and make any titial adjustments.
Try the nktrt on at this time. Phiee it on the figure right side out, and
THE MAKING OF CLOTHING 363
Page 205
Presented as published in 1919. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
A modernized reading is not available for this page yet. You are seeing the original text.
Adjust the fuilti€Hs around the waiist-Uo^ next. Pin the wftkt to ii stif-
fened l>elt if it is to t>e a pari of ti dnm, or to » non-elaittie tape, if it i» to
U^ a JHt'jmrat^ gannent. In either cam the a^ljusting id nhont the aaini^.
Pin the renter btu-k of the wuisi to tUe c [it*T Iwu'k *}{ the Mtin^;; at eithi^r
the normiil waii^t-linc or the miseci wiiust-hnf, dependinjc on whether a
skirt in to Im? made or not, LfK*ate the under-arm seany*, and pin them to
the belting. I*in the center front of the waist tcj the centeT front uf the
belt. Draw the gathering threads ti^t, and adjust tlic ftiUneas. To okmI
Bgures a shght bloiisiog ik be<x>niing. A;s far as poswtile^ keep the liiif«
made by the gathering at right angles to the wai0t4ine. Thia gives the
figure u straight appearance.
If the waittt in too tight over the bust» it may l»e made shijhtly larger by
letting out the under-arm scam; or in ease the waist ia toeing fitted in
praetiee material, fuUnen at the bust may be allowed as shown in Figs.
65 and B6.
The armhole Une is one nf the rawt imtKirtani lines in the waist. From
the point of the shoulder, the line f^hould drop alrncjst straight to the front
maM!le of the arm. The line then curves to fit the underarm as cloeely as is
comfortable and furins a nearly ^traiglit Une along the armhole at the liack.
The grf«.ter amount of fullness in the sleeve should fall over the nhouhler
bone which in most caaes is from ?f to l}4 inches in front of the slioulder
seam, llie stniight lengthii-ist^ grain of the material should fall stmight
down fnMU the highest |Kiint of the shoulder. If the sleeve is too large or
Um Kmall, it f^hijiild U" changed at the scam. Observe the length of the
sleeve^ and try on the cuff. If the sleeve puffs slightly at tlie liack even
when the ell>ow IS bcnt» take the seam in the sleeve dieeper, but not the mmm
of the walHt.
If a eollur-band is to W uswl, it Hhould lie tried on at this Lime.
A sbirt'-waifit should fit loosely but smoothly. Overfitting takra away
from the iid'ormal graces and style of the wai«t. After a plain )>ihirt-wuist
has been sntisfnctorily adjusted, an excellent plan is to rip it opart and
either cut a new pattern or correct the old one from it. If this is done^
much difficult fitting rnay l:>e avoided at another time.
After the waint ha*« Ixt^n fitted and bt-fore the sleeve has been n^moved,
mark Ixith the sleeve and the waist so that they will go together again
without diificulty. Mark on the U'lt the iNiints at which the under-ann
seams fall, and also the line of the waist.
RfwttjiMte the .nleeve. finish the waist as nearly as po«sililc at the bottom,
and again \nifiie it into the waist. Bjixte the ctillar-band into place, or if
a fancy ccjllar is to be used, baste it together, and try it on at the next
fitting Pin the W!iij«t again to the foundation t>elt.
Place tlie waist on llie figure, and make any titial adjustments.
Try the nktrt on at this time. Phiee it on the figure right side out, and
THE MAKING OF CLOTHING 363