A manual of home-making

be used. This belting should be as wide as the distance alx>ve the waist-line at which the line of the skirt is desked to appear. If the belt is wide, it may l>e fitted with darts (Fig. 81). The darts may extend from one edge of the belting to the other^ the greater depth, about I4 inch, being in the center of the belt* ing, if one wishes the t>elt to extend slightly l>clow the waist- line. Or the dart may be taken deep at the top anti allowed to taper to nothing at the bottom, if the entire l>elt is to drop below the waist-line. These darts shouki be on the side of the l>elt placed next to tiie body. The ends of the belting are then turned in and a sntficient numl)er of hooks and €*3^es sewed on to 360 A MANUAL OF HOME-MAKING hold the bdt in good i)osition. The hooks should Ix? sewed the riKht-liand end of the Mi and on <he vvroncr side, the bill of the hook l»f^irig set 7tn inch bark from the end of the Inciting. Tlie eyes shoukl extend beyonti the etlge of the Ix^hing at the left-hand end the same di.stiinfe that the hooks are slipped back. The two ends of the lx*lt will exactly meet when it is hooked. The unfinished ends of the belting and the stitehinc; holding the hooks and eyes in place is covered with a piece of tafTeta seam-binding (Fig, 81); or if there Is any excess material on each end it may be foldetl back }4 inch on the outside; then the folded edge should Iw brought up under the bill of the h(M>k on one end and over ihe loop of t!ie vyi*s on the oth<'r eml and hemmed into place. This last method of finishing the Ix^lt is very substantial but makes a much thicker tiniah. The center front, the center back, and the sides of the belt should then l)e marked with colored thread in order to facilitate adjusting the ^rment on the figure. FTTTtNG GARMENTS (PLATBS XII AND XIII) Two fittings for a simple garment, sufh as a house-dn>?«, plain shirt-waist, or a skirt, should lie sufficient, if tlu* garment has l>een properly prepared and the fitting is carefully done. Generally it is not necessary to fit more than the right side of a simple garment unless there is a great dilTeiTnce lx?tween the right and left sides of the figure. Too much fitting destroys the crisp freshness of new materiaL To l>e properly prepared for the first fitting, a dress should have the scams basted, the sleeves basted into place, and the following markings or bastings, placed: On the »kirt: (1) Placket; (2) hcm-linc of the skirt, if possible; (3) ocnUr front; (4) center Inick; (3) hip-line, 6 inches below the wiUet-line; (0) wtiist- line, either niised or noririal. On the lielt: (1) Center front; (2) center back. On the waist: (1) Center front; (2) center back; (3) neckline; (4) arro- hole line, if the slreve is not Ijasted in; (5) waist-lino; (6) two gathering threaiLn at the waist-line, one J^ inch below the other. On tlie sleevp: (I) Finished leng^th; (2) two i^nthtTini? thmwli* in the tiottom of the alt'evc, iinc on tht* tracing and one Ji incti below the? tmcing; t^ f I THE MAKING OF CLOTHING 361 and gfttherinK threads should also uppf'ar in the t«p of the sle<?ve betifreen the indiriited places; (3) line nf finishini^ at the arm-hole of the lis^istj (4) the point of fhc ollww in a tight-fitting sleeve. With these marks it should be very easy to adjust the waist anrl tlie skirt to the figure.