A manual of home-making

Baste all parts *if the wtust as far iis possible, in order that !he>' may be reuUy tn iry on after tliis fir»t basting^ and tbu8 avoid re|>ei&ted fitting;}. To bask a skirL Pin the hit>-line«, watst-liaes^ and hem-lines of the gores together, Place as many pins as necessary betwt'en thc*Hi* points. If it is nt»eefisary to boale the skirt before trying it on, oIj«<tvo the general rulet* (page 353). If ttus skirt is simple, it may be turnetj at thin time on the line of the hem, and the hem may be basted into place. This will give a better feeling when the skirt in first tried on, At the placket extend the basting of the M^m on each side, in order that a good line for the fitting may be otjser\*ed. The placket is generally about 12 inches deep. If a tuck opening i^ desired or a seam stiteh&d on the outside, tho gore edge or (nniter front of the skirt is generally turned toward the ^Tong side on the line of marking, l>asted if neecasary, and then pressed. The gore Ut whieh this edge is to l*e sewed is then pliu'ed jiorfpctly flat on the table antl the pressed edgp of the first gore plaeed juiit to the line of marking on the second gorp. The waist-line, the hip-lines, and the hem-hnes of the gores must be made to coincide. Pin the gores carvfully in place^ and baste them. In basting darts in a skirt, begin at the point of the dart and work toward the waist. Care must Ims taken to keep l>oth md^ of the dart smooth. Wlien oljserved on the right wide, the tlart shuuld form a line at right angles to the waist-line or a line with a slightly outward curve like the curve of tlie body. Darts should not lie cut open until after the fitting. KINDS OP &£1AMS FOR GAHMENTS Many kinds of seams are possible in the various types of gar- rnents^ some practical and some decorative as well. In this short. discus.sion of the processes in drassmaking it will be im- possible to explain how each kind of seam is made. In order to recall the different t>^>as of seams the following outUne is made. The kind of seajn to lie used in making a gannent should I ■ I THE MAKING OF CLOTHING be decided before the garment is basted together, in order to avoid unnecessary basting. Far ufvficrwear ami ftlmn drui.Hes: Plain seam; French seam; stitcher! fell; hemmed fell; overhand felL Far Hngfrie dresses and u^fiLitn: French seam; hemmed fell; seam made with entre-deux; standing fell; rolled «ram. For tniiored wmi or tsiik garm^rfU^: French seam; stitched fell; welt seam; do ubh>-st itched welt; cord sejim; plain seam; slot seam; strapped seam; lapped seam. For h'Uk and fine wool drasHea: Plain seam; plain seam bound; plain seam made, edges turned to wTong side and sewed tvogether with running stitch; piquot edge, HOW TO MAKE A FOUNDATION BELT For a dress or a skirt with a raised waist-line, a ribbeil belting or a cambric belting stiffened with stays of featherbone .should Fio, 81. — Method of maldnx a foundation belt for a skirt or a dress. Two end finisthea are shown.