the Hli*eve. Insert the pjathered sleeve between the upper edges of the cuff,
pinning the indicateti iwintfi together. Pin the gnthers toward the front
and the bark of the euff^ adjusting them aa suggested, and allowing ti>e
placket of the sleeve to remain perf€H*tly smooth. Baste the right side of
the cuff to the sleeve, Tuni the slei'Ve to the wrong side, and histe the
inner side of the cuff in i»lace 1/1 tl inch al>ove the out^nide l>aating in order
that the inside will Ik* caught by the stitching from the right iside, 8litch
entirely around the cuff 1/10 inch from the edge. Htitch again across Uw
top 3 4 inch Ih'Iow l!ie fir^t row of j^titehing.
For a close-fitting sleeve finistied with a facing, boale the slet»vi* and try
it on before stitching and finishing the Uittom,
For a shirt sleeve, one similar to the sleeve of a man '** ahirt witltout gathers
A
THE MAKING OF CLOTHING
357
at tiie toj>, baste the sleeve into the waist before either the seam of the
sleeve or the under-jjnn s«*arn *^r I he waist is joiiK*d. In this case the
placket may lie applif^l before (h** sleeve ifl Bet in, but the cuff cannot be
placed,
7^0 baste in a shirt-waist or a coat sleeve.
The fallowing scheme of Ificating the sleeve proves satisfactory for
almost any typc^ of wloeve. This is of courw only a general rule, since ali
sleeves most finally be adjusted. to the i>eraon if they ivre to be truly artistic.
Flo. 80* — Method of cuttins a pattern for & circular flounce. Fit together the
gores of a six-gort? skirt on top of a patx*r; trace around the lower edge of
lh« nkirt, thf et'iitcr inmt, the center hack, and acmss the wkirt where the
ilouDcn is to l>c attsichcd; ri'inove the pattern and cut aloog the tn&ciQg;
from tlic l>ott*>tn slabh the flouucc to withia yj inch f}f the top of the floiinci%
and spread it apart as dcHinnJ. This flounce ia very circular unless it ia
dividffi into sectioncSp arvd if this is done* they should be so placed that a
straight edge fails on a hitis edge as in a skirt.
1. Measure 1 inch hock of the shoulder seani at the armhole. Using
this Its the dividing [Xiint, fuld the arm hole in half. The piiint opposite
tljjM first |K)int is thi' ixjint at which to place the seam of the sleeve.
2, Pin the se^m of the sleeve in place.
3, Bring the shoulder seam of the waist down tu the under-arm seam
of the waist, ami foJd the armhole flat. The two j>oiiit*! thus locate<l on
the sides of the armhoie are the jxjints between wliich the gathers of the
sleeve sliould be atljusted.
4. Pin the sleeve in |>liie(% working from the sc*am towards each of the
pointH located. Then pin the remainder of t!ie sleeve, holding the fnllneHS
eaiuly between thesc^ two jw^inls. If there is too much fullness to pin in
358 A MANUAL OF HOME-MAKING
pkoe, gather it with onv thrc^ad on the Iriicing, lUid u aet'ond *hrc«tJ slighUy
bHoWi or toward the ruff of the sleeve.
5. Adjust ttie gathers to fit the armholPj nmkiiiK the center of the sleeve
fall in a pi'rfeetly straight line frniu the highest point of the shouldex.
If the gathers arc allowed to fall forward tath*T than backward^ a dight cup
is formed in the front of the sleeve to tit over the point of the shoulder.
6. Pin and baste the entire sleeve ia place.
To baste a collar or other deccratuma.
Page 201
Presented as published in 1919. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
A modernized reading is not available for this page yet. You are seeing the original text.
the Hli*eve. Insert the pjathered sleeve between the upper edges of the cuff,
pinning the indicateti iwintfi together. Pin the gnthers toward the front
and the bark of the euff^ adjusting them aa suggested, and allowing ti>e
placket of the sleeve to remain perf€H*tly smooth. Baste the right side of
the cuff to the sleeve, Tuni the slei'Ve to the wrong side, and histe the
inner side of the cuff in i»lace 1/1 tl inch al>ove the out^nide l>aating in order
that the inside will Ik* caught by the stitching from the right iside, 8litch
entirely around the cuff 1/10 inch from the edge. Htitch again across Uw
top 3 4 inch Ih'Iow l!ie fir^t row of j^titehing.
For a close-fitting sleeve finistied with a facing, boale the slet»vi* and try
it on before stitching and finishing the Uittom,
For a shirt sleeve, one similar to the sleeve of a man '** ahirt witltout gathers
A
THE MAKING OF CLOTHING
357
at tiie toj>, baste the sleeve into the waist before either the seam of the
sleeve or the under-jjnn s«*arn *^r I he waist is joiiK*d. In this case the
placket may lie applif^l before (h** sleeve ifl Bet in, but the cuff cannot be
placed,
7^0 baste in a shirt-waist or a coat sleeve.
The fallowing scheme of Ificating the sleeve proves satisfactory for
almost any typc^ of wloeve. This is of courw only a general rule, since ali
sleeves most finally be adjusted. to the i>eraon if they ivre to be truly artistic.
Flo. 80* — Method of cuttins a pattern for & circular flounce. Fit together the
gores of a six-gort? skirt on top of a patx*r; trace around the lower edge of
lh« nkirt, thf et'iitcr inmt, the center hack, and acmss the wkirt where the
ilouDcn is to l>c attsichcd; ri'inove the pattern and cut aloog the tn&ciQg;
from tlic l>ott*>tn slabh the flouucc to withia yj inch f}f the top of the floiinci%
and spread it apart as dcHinnJ. This flounce ia very circular unless it ia
dividffi into sectioncSp arvd if this is done* they should be so placed that a
straight edge fails on a hitis edge as in a skirt.
1. Measure 1 inch hock of the shoulder seani at the armhole. Using
this Its the dividing [Xiint, fuld the arm hole in half. The piiint opposite
tljjM first |K)int is thi' ixjint at which to place the seam of the sleeve.
2, Pin the se^m of the sleeve in place.
3, Bring the shoulder seam of the waist down tu the under-arm seam
of the waist, ami foJd the armhole flat. The two j>oiiit*! thus locate<l on
the sides of the armhoie are the jxjints between wliich the gathers of the
sleeve sliould be atljusted.
4. Pin the sleeve in |>liie(% working from the sc*am towards each of the
pointH located. Then pin the remainder of t!ie sleeve, holding the fnllneHS
eaiuly between thesc^ two jw^inls. If there is too much fullness to pin in
358 A MANUAL OF HOME-MAKING
pkoe, gather it with onv thrc^ad on the Iriicing, lUid u aet'ond *hrc«tJ slighUy
bHoWi or toward the ruff of the sleeve.
5. Adjust ttie gathers to fit the armholPj nmkiiiK the center of the sleeve
fall in a pi'rfeetly straight line frniu the highest point of the shouldex.
If the gathers arc allowed to fall forward tath*T than backward^ a dight cup
is formed in the front of the sleeve to tit over the point of the shoulder.
6. Pin and baste the entire sleeve ia place.
To baste a collar or other deccratuma.