FoodNet

A manual of home-making

1919

Page 200

Presented as published in 1919. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
of the |x?pliim, using an even bastmg stitch. If a yoke is to be used, read the directions under section 4. Baste the shoulder seams first and spread the garment out perfeetly Hal on the table* Pin the yoke into plaec^ and baste it. Then baste the under-ann seam M already directed. For a light-fitting waist, pin the side-front seam from tlu? waiat^Une up toward the point of the bust, and from the shoulder seam down toward Fio. 77* — ^Anothcr molhod of odjustiDR a gored akirt pattern for a %urc with prooiineat abdomen. I I I I A THE MAKING OF CLOTHING the same point. This brings a slight fullnesa at the corn-ct pliice over the fullest part of the buHt, Divide thi8 fullness through a space of about 2 inches. Adjust the shoulder seanm hv^t in this tj'pe of wnist. 4, Pin the shoulder seams together, first matching the markings of the neck-line and then the armhole. Buste the seams, holding the back of the waist toward yoU. It is often nece.sytiiry to stretch the front slightly to fit Fio. 78* — Method of adding matr^rii*! in n K*»rrd skirt pattern Ui form a tuck at tho senni. the back. This is desirable, since the waist will then naturally spring down to fit the curve of the shoulder. To baste sleeves. For a shirt-waist sleeve, make the placket and apply it before bjisting the sleeve. The placket is generally |ilaced alwjut I ini'h back of the center fold, made by folding the sleeve along the seam. After the placket h:is been placed and stitched, tlic seam of tire sleeve is l:>astetl and stitched, &nd the cnfT is sewe<l on. In a«i justing the gathers at the liottom of the sleeve, leave the siefn''e without gathers for a space nf about 1 inch on each side of the seam, (jiither the sltK*ve to ht the cuff. For a simple culT or a French cnff, place tlie two right sidrs of the cuff 356 A MANUAL OF HOME-MAKING togetiie?r, and stitch the cuff arrays the two ends aod the bottom. Thuti miter the corners to remove the excpss matt^rial. Turn the cult ri^ht side out, creoHi* it very sharply arovmd the edj^e, and basi« it peifectly flat. kjcxosA the top turn in % inch toward the wrong; side alonjt Iw-ith the riRht and the wrong side of the cuff, and baste down this alluwanee. Fold the cuff from end to end, and locate the center. One inch toward the end of the cuff which ih to be aewed to the back of the sleeve, place the m*aui of Flo, 79. — Designing narrow or full rimilaf i*kirt put tern. A» ^Tt'thr1d nf plac a six-gore pattern for a slightly circular skirt with gatherB iit the waist-lm«^* In cutting a »kirt of this kind, a w»ani may l>c plnci<<l in thr center front* rscnter back, or over the hips, 119 desiniMl. il, Alrihod of ptitcirtg tt stTC-gon* pattern to makf* u rirrular skirt, full at the Imttoni and fitting »tno<_»lhly fit the waist-line and hips. The gore« may he spread apart and uneiroii aniottnts of fullness tlius tlirown iti. *