Fio. 72. — Mothod of cutting coUarfl for flat or rolling ef-
fect. The more nearly the neck-line of a oollaf ap-
proaches a circle, the flatter tht^ rnllar tvtll lie. The
ctirvc for a collar Bhould always Ijc atmightencd
slightly to fit the back of the ucck.
forations do not show, and on very soft material the markings
destroy the surface finish or threads.
Tailor's chalk may l>e bought at the notion counter of any-
dry goods store. The chalk nmrks only one surface at a time,
and the marks may l>ecome obliterated before tiihe to use thein.
On some materials they are very' difficult to erase.
Tailor's basting is a very satisfactory way of marking mata-
rials. It rei|uire5 more time than the other methods, but is
more lasting and may be done through two thicknesses.
I
Flo. 73. — Changing length or width of skirt pattern. A, Method of iengthemng.
The pat torn may l)e mil at a point ah* nit opposite the kn<M^ and spread
as desitxi'd. B, Method of ehort^ning. The tuck may t>e taken in a pattern
about opposite the knet!. If the i>attvrn ia flimply folded up at the bottom
to ahortcD it, a great deal of fuUnetts la removed. C» Method of inereamtig
the width of a skirt pattern.
I
Flo, 74. — Increasing waist or hip aiae of u skirt pattern. A. Method of m-
ereaaing the ai«e of the waiat njid the hipa of a gored akirt pattern, B,
Method of tncreasing the aize of the waist without inereasing the site of
the hips. C, Method of increasing the mjee of the hips without increawB
the waiat sixe.
352
.1 MANUAL OF HOME-MAKING
long double thread is taken to make this tacking. Along the line
wliich is to be marked^ even basting stitche»*! should be taken,
leaving a gcneroiLs loop of thread betwt^^ti each 8titch. The
pattern should l)C folded back when one h marking lines in-
dicated by perfomtinns in the pattern. The twr> niges of the
material should l)e separated and the threads cut halfway be-
tween the e<Iges. Tliis le^ives
a marking line of stitches and
ends along l>oth edges of the
material.
Tailor*s tacks are made in
much the same way as tailor's
basting. At a point where a
mark is desired, a sfitch al)OUt
14 iiich long is taken leaving
an end of thread. Over this
stitch another stitch should be
taken leaving a loop uf thread.
The thread k then cut from
the material leaving another
end* The two pieces of ma-
terial are separated, and the
joining threads cut, leaving a
mark on each piece*
Flo, 75. — McthcnJ of dorrf^iftinn tht»
iiiic of thf hip*'^ of a gx^rcHJ skirt
pattern without decreasing the ai«e
of the wiuBt.
IIOW^ TO CUT A GARMENT
In using a standard com-
mercial pattern on which the
seam allowance i« made, the
material should be cut close to
the edge of the pattern. In using a modeled pattern, the mater-
ial may be cut at the correct distance from the seam markings^
a tapehne or cardboard measure being used to indicate the
distance until the eye becomes trained. If tailor tacking has
been used, the two pieces of the pattern should be pulled apart,
and the threads cut, care being taken not to shake the parts of
the ganiient and thus lose the marking threads. As soon as the
I
J
THE MAKING OF CLOTHING
Page 198
Presented as published in 1919. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
A modernized reading is not available for this page yet. You are seeing the original text.
Fio. 72. — Mothod of cutting coUarfl for flat or rolling ef-
fect. The more nearly the neck-line of a oollaf ap-
proaches a circle, the flatter tht^ rnllar tvtll lie. The
ctirvc for a collar Bhould always Ijc atmightencd
slightly to fit the back of the ucck.
forations do not show, and on very soft material the markings
destroy the surface finish or threads.
Tailor's chalk may l>e bought at the notion counter of any-
dry goods store. The chalk nmrks only one surface at a time,
and the marks may l>ecome obliterated before tiihe to use thein.
On some materials they are very' difficult to erase.
Tailor's basting is a very satisfactory way of marking mata-
rials. It rei|uire5 more time than the other methods, but is
more lasting and may be done through two thicknesses.
I
Flo. 73. — Changing length or width of skirt pattern. A, Method of iengthemng.
The pat torn may l)e mil at a point ah* nit opposite the kn<M^ and spread
as desitxi'd. B, Method of ehort^ning. The tuck may t>e taken in a pattern
about opposite the knet!. If the i>attvrn ia flimply folded up at the bottom
to ahortcD it, a great deal of fuUnetts la removed. C» Method of inereamtig
the width of a skirt pattern.
I
Flo, 74. — Increasing waist or hip aiae of u skirt pattern. A. Method of m-
ereaaing the ai«e of the waiat njid the hipa of a gored akirt pattern, B,
Method of tncreasing the aize of the waist without inereasing the site of
the hips. C, Method of increasing the mjee of the hips without increawB
the waiat sixe.
352
.1 MANUAL OF HOME-MAKING
long double thread is taken to make this tacking. Along the line
wliich is to be marked^ even basting stitche»*! should be taken,
leaving a gcneroiLs loop of thread betwt^^ti each 8titch. The
pattern should l)C folded back when one h marking lines in-
dicated by perfomtinns in the pattern. The twr> niges of the
material should l)e separated and the threads cut halfway be-
tween the e<Iges. Tliis le^ives
a marking line of stitches and
ends along l>oth edges of the
material.
Tailor*s tacks are made in
much the same way as tailor's
basting. At a point where a
mark is desired, a sfitch al)OUt
14 iiich long is taken leaving
an end of thread. Over this
stitch another stitch should be
taken leaving a loop uf thread.
The thread k then cut from
the material leaving another
end* The two pieces of ma-
terial are separated, and the
joining threads cut, leaving a
mark on each piece*
Flo, 75. — McthcnJ of dorrf^iftinn tht»
iiiic of thf hip*'^ of a gx^rcHJ skirt
pattern without decreasing the ai«e
of the wiuBt.
IIOW^ TO CUT A GARMENT
In using a standard com-
mercial pattern on which the
seam allowance i« made, the
material should be cut close to
the edge of the pattern. In using a modeled pattern, the mater-
ial may be cut at the correct distance from the seam markings^
a tapehne or cardboard measure being used to indicate the
distance until the eye becomes trained. If tailor tacking has
been used, the two pieces of the pattern should be pulled apart,
and the threads cut, care being taken not to shake the parts of
the ganiient and thus lose the marking threads. As soon as the
I
J
THE MAKING OF CLOTHING