A manual of home-making

Skirta are seldom made with a construction line falling on the grain of the materitil. For children *8 drci5^\s and for fancy silk dreaHcs, a skirt is occasionally made on the crosswise grain of the nmtertal. ChifTotw, georgette crdpe, net, or voile, on which there is a beautiful sc^lvage edgie, is often draped on the crosswise grain, and thus the making of a hem flniahy which is often cumber^jome on very lightrweight materials, is avoided, HOW TO xMATiK A GARMENT FOR BASTING After the pattern is placed, the seam allowance and other necessary points should be marked by one of the suggested methodjs. The points or lines generally marked are: (1) waist line; (2) seams along the edge of a modeled pattern, or along the iiidi* cated line on a coranjereial skirt, or waist pattern; (3) neck-Unc; (4) amihole; (5) eeDt4?r front of waist and skirt; (6) center hack of wjiist and skirt; (7) waist* line of i^kirt; (8) iiii>-line; (9) hem-line; (10) length- wise center of sleeve; (11) points indicating decora- tions^ plaits, tucks, and gathers; and (12) notcha^. The notches for the join- ing of seatus should be indi- cated by a tack of thre^id or a chalk mark, never by cutting the noteh^ "^ince this often niins the final finish of a seam and does not allow for an increase in the size of the garment^ if thia h necessary. I Flo. CO. — Method used in modeliug gar- menu over a flat paitom. A, the paper pattern is piniu'd toKcthL-r at the ahcmlder seam und the lines mtirktHl •howHig the dc^gn to bfi followed; B, the rt'sutting waist dcsisoed on tlie originiil pattern. I Fio. 70,*— AdjiistiriK pnttern to fit shoulders. A, Altera- tion necessary for very square shoulders. It is often necesaary to fit in the shoulder i»eiim at the Ijaac of the tierk- This seam aliould slope very gradually into the old shoulder seam at the tip of the shoulder. Thi^ adjusitment often neeoaaitates the lowering of tlie ncck-Iine in l>c>th the back and the fnint, B» Altera- tion neeessnry for very fllopinp; shoulder. It \» nec- essiirj' to take in the shoulder scara slightly at the tip rtf the shoulder near the arm hole. Tht' new aearo should slope 'i'ery gradually to the old shoulder seam at the t>a.'se of the neck. This alteration necessitates lowering the armholo* . 71. — Simple adjustment of eleeve pattern. ^4* Method of increasing a Blceve pattern at the bottom. B, Method of adjusting a shirt-waist sleeve pattern trj mstke a closofitting sleeve at the Ixittom without ehiinging the else at the top. A dart may lie folded in the under aide of the sleeve, taking out the excess fullness, Thia dart ahould extend from the bottom of the alocve about to t!ie elUvw. The diirt should fall nearer to the outside line of the sleeve than to the seam. C, Method of decreasing the fullness in a eieeve. To take fallni^flM nut of the top of a sjleevet fold a plait at the top along the eenter line, and let this plait decrease to nothing as it approaches the Kw^ittoni of the 3le<.';\'e. " L 350 A MANUAL OF HOME-MAKING 4 The tracing wheel marks two thicknesses of material at once and is, therefore, a great convenience. It cannot be used on all kinds of material, however, for on very thick material the per-