Pro. 67. — Method of deereaain^ the si»<^ of h shirt'waiat
pattern. Inetcad of cuttiiiir i>vnd siircadinft a pftttem
118 in Fig. 65, tht^ mtv should Ikj decro«3i?d by j
a fold in the pattern.
1. Lines of a simple patt«»rii pi'nnndly plared on the j^tndght length^
grain, or the lengthwise fold, of Ihf mal^i'rial;
In a waist:
a. Center front
b. Center Imck
In a sleeve:
Along the outer fold wht'n the jicam edj^es arc brought together* Any '
eleeve after tx-ing lifi^ted should lie perfectly flat when folded.
In a yoke or ctillar:
a. Center front or center back of yoke or collar. The center back of a
waist yoke or collar is generally cut on the lengthwise fold, although oft4>n
the lower front edges are cut on the f^traight grain, causing a bijm M>am iti
the center back.
b. In a Bkirt yoke there may bo all sortjs of eombmatinns in cutting,
Probably the moet «uc*cc«sful way im to cut the material with the stmiglit
grain in the ecnUT back and the wiitur frnn^ . giving a bi:is seiini over the
THE MAKING OF CLOTHING
iiip. Sagging may hv disguised by making the yoke? longer over the hip,
if this gives a hecaining line. The bottom line of a skirt yoke iiitist be
cnrofiilly conaidpred with rfferpuce to the figure. Avoid allowing the
lower edge to fall in a wtrriight lint- uroumi the fullest part of the Ixidy.
EithcT an irregular yoke-line or the line joining a front or back panel is
generally more becoming.
In a cuff:
The direction of the grain of the material in the cuff depends greatly
on the deijign of the waist and of the material. For beauty of design, the
cuff is gencrjill)^ cut with
the lengthwise grain running
with the depth of the cuff;
for greater Htrength, how-
ever, the euff is cut with
the lengthwise grain running
from fo^itening to fastening.
In a skirt:
a. Center of front panel.
Generally the front edge of
each succeeding gore, in order
that a straight edge may be
sewed to a bian etlge. Tliis
method will help to keep a
skirt from sagging. In skirta
of two gores the center of
e4inh gore m oftcMi plafcnl on
the straight lengthwise fold.
b. If a rounding or tul)e-
like ettect is desired in a skirt
of many gores, the center of
each gore Ls placed on the
straight lengthwuse grain of
the material .
When great strength is desiretl, the lengthwise grain of the material is
always usetl. Skirt-bands, ai:trt)ii-band8, neck-bands, bands in all under-
garment.Sp and etilTs, iire cut with their longest measurement on the length-
wise grain of the rnateriah
2. Lines of a simple pattern placed on the straight crosswise grain of
the material:
In a shirt-waist:
a. Width of the chest
b. Width at the Vmck
c. Waist-line of the under-ann piece of a tight-fitting waist
In a sleeve :
Generally around the fullest part of the arm.
I
Fio. 68, — Method of lengthening a waist pat-
tern for a very full bust or round should-
ers. This method may Im' us^td on a ehirt*
waist, idsOf with slight alteration of tho
under-arm scam.
I
348
A MANUAL OF HOME-MAKIXG
In etifiTs:
Etepth of the ciilTp when the design of tiie wnist requires it.
In yokes:
Depth of the yoke, when the design of the waist requires it.
In skirts:
Page 196
Presented as published in 1919. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
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Pro. 67. — Method of deereaain^ the si»<^ of h shirt'waiat
pattern. Inetcad of cuttiiiir i>vnd siircadinft a pftttem
118 in Fig. 65, tht^ mtv should Ikj decro«3i?d by j
a fold in the pattern.
1. Lines of a simple patt«»rii pi'nnndly plared on the j^tndght length^
grain, or the lengthwise fold, of Ihf mal^i'rial;
In a waist:
a. Center front
b. Center Imck
In a sleeve:
Along the outer fold wht'n the jicam edj^es arc brought together* Any '
eleeve after tx-ing lifi^ted should lie perfectly flat when folded.
In a yoke or ctillar:
a. Center front or center back of yoke or collar. The center back of a
waist yoke or collar is generally cut on the lengthwise fold, although oft4>n
the lower front edges are cut on the f^traight grain, causing a bijm M>am iti
the center back.
b. In a Bkirt yoke there may bo all sortjs of eombmatinns in cutting,
Probably the moet «uc*cc«sful way im to cut the material with the stmiglit
grain in the ecnUT back and the wiitur frnn^ . giving a bi:is seiini over the
THE MAKING OF CLOTHING
iiip. Sagging may hv disguised by making the yoke? longer over the hip,
if this gives a hecaining line. The bottom line of a skirt yoke iiitist be
cnrofiilly conaidpred with rfferpuce to the figure. Avoid allowing the
lower edge to fall in a wtrriight lint- uroumi the fullest part of the Ixidy.
EithcT an irregular yoke-line or the line joining a front or back panel is
generally more becoming.
In a cuff:
The direction of the grain of the material in the cuff depends greatly
on the deijign of the waist and of the material. For beauty of design, the
cuff is gencrjill)^ cut with
the lengthwise grain running
with the depth of the cuff;
for greater Htrength, how-
ever, the euff is cut with
the lengthwise grain running
from fo^itening to fastening.
In a skirt:
a. Center of front panel.
Generally the front edge of
each succeeding gore, in order
that a straight edge may be
sewed to a bian etlge. Tliis
method will help to keep a
skirt from sagging. In skirta
of two gores the center of
e4inh gore m oftcMi plafcnl on
the straight lengthwise fold.
b. If a rounding or tul)e-
like ettect is desired in a skirt
of many gores, the center of
each gore Ls placed on the
straight lengthwuse grain of
the material .
When great strength is desiretl, the lengthwise grain of the material is
always usetl. Skirt-bands, ai:trt)ii-band8, neck-bands, bands in all under-
garment.Sp and etilTs, iire cut with their longest measurement on the length-
wise grain of the rnateriah
2. Lines of a simple pattern placed on the straight crosswise grain of
the material:
In a shirt-waist:
a. Width of the chest
b. Width at the Vmck
c. Waist-line of the under-ann piece of a tight-fitting waist
In a sleeve :
Generally around the fullest part of the arm.
I
Fio. 68, — Method of lengthening a waist pat-
tern for a very full bust or round should-
ers. This method may Im' us^td on a ehirt*
waist, idsOf with slight alteration of tho
under-arm scam.
I
348
A MANUAL OF HOME-MAKIXG
In etifiTs:
Etepth of the ciilTp when the design of tiie wnist requires it.
In yokes:
Depth of the yoke, when the design of the waist requires it.
In skirts: